Lithophane Box (3x5 Pictures)

thingiverse

I wanted to make some lithophane boxes for Christmas, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for and decided to make my own. MATERIALS: I wanted my box to look wooden, so I used [this wood filament](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KHFV47/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image). All print settings will be based on using this, but feel free to experiment with your own materials/settings. For ease of use, I chose [these puck lights](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY57K63?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) for lighting so that the user can just turn the light on/off with the remote. Extra remotes can be purchased from the seller, if needed. For the lithophanes, any standard white PLA should be fine. MODELS: There are 2 sets of files to choose from - textured and non-textured. The textured parts have a 3D wood-grain texture on their outer surfaces in an attempt to make them look like actual wood. But after making mine, I think the staining process was much more important in getting a good-looking wood grain. Try them out and see which you prefer. The textured lid and base only have textured walls - the texture didn't seem to come out well on the top/bottom surfaces. Orientation: Ignore the print orientations in the preview pictures. For the arms, I recommend orienting so that the inner, long flat wall is on the print bed. You'll need to use some supports, but it helps make sure the texture of the exposed surfaces is uniform. The base and lid are straightforward - just print with the bottom/top down and the cavities facing up. SETTINGS: For the wood filament, it's best to use a 0.8mm nozzle, so the settings below are for that nozzle size. If you're using a different filament and nozzle size, you'll likely need to change some settings. Layer height: 0.32mm Wall thickness: 2.4mm Top/bottom thickness*: 1.28mm Infill: 20% Printing temp: 190C Bed temp: 50C *For the lids only, I'd recommend increasing top/bottom thickness, or printing solid. After making my boxes, I discovered that the light was sometimes bright enough that you could see the infill pattern through the top of the lid. POST PROCESSING: Again, all post processing discussed here will be based on using wood filament. For sanding, I recommend ~120 grit sandpaper. Anything lower made the stain look sloppier, and anything higher seemed to make the stain not retain as well. For staining, [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIZZfzCVmLo) was a very helpful watch. Dry brush the parts and try to create a wood pattern while brushing, like he shows. I used the [Minwax honey](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Wood-Finish-Honey-Oil-Based-Interior-Stain-Actual-Net-Contents-8-fl-oz/999913877) that he uses at some point, but he shows a few other color combinations if you'd like to try a different look. Keep the stain on for 10-20 minutes, depending how dark you want the box, and then wipe the excess. Once the parts are fully dried, I recommend applying a clear coat or two to help protect/seal them and give them a glossier look. LITHOPHANES: For the lithophanes, I used [this site](https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/) to generate the STL files. Grab 4 good quality photos you want to use, crop them to a 3x5 aspect ratio, and upload them to the site. Change these settings to get the correct size lithophane: Model settings - Max size = 127mm, Thickness = 3mm, Border = 0 Image settings - Just make sure "POSITIVE" image is selected Generate the STL's and bring into your slicer. My typical lithophane slicer settings are: Layer height: 0.12mm Wall thickness: 1.6mm Top/bottom thickness*: 0.84mm Infill: 99% Printing temp: 200C Bed temp: 50C ASSEMBLY: Finally, the assembly is pretty straightforward. Place the puck lights in the base - you can use the included adhesive pad to hold it down in the cutout. Place the arms in the base (careful, orientation matters). Slide the lithophanes down between the arms, and then place the lid onto the arms. I decided to glue the arms into the base using gorilla glue, so that they wouldn't pop out with the lid when it's removed.