List Stencil

prusaprinters

<p>Stencil for making a list of checkboxes. Optionally mark checkboxes as complete with the included checkmark shape or by hand.</p> <p>Designed to have a prettier side towards you, a rougher side towards paper for grip, and smooth shapes all around for better inking and handling.</p> <p>Works perfectly with Moleskine Cahier Journals. Specifically the XL size which is around 7.5 by 9.75 inches. Use the stencil as a bookmark or placeholder between pages or store it securely in the journal's pocket for transport.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>These print instructions are ordered from easiest to hardest.</p> <p><strong>Printing with the supplied G-code</strong></p> <p>If you have a Prusa MK3/S with a 0.4mm nozzle and are going to print in PLA, feel free to use the provided G-code.</p> <p><strong>Printing the rectilinear 3MF file</strong></p> <p>Change any print or filament settings you like, slice, and print.</p> <p><strong>Printing the monotonic 3MF file</strong></p> <p>You will need Prusaslicer 2.3.0-alpha1 or newer to open this file since it includes the new monotonic infill for top and bottom layers. Less shimmer in the final product makes the effort worth or it or use the supplied G-code which was generated from this file.</p> <p>Other than the software requirement, change any print or filament settings you like, slice, and print.</p> <p><strong>Printing the STL file</strong></p> <p>Place the model on its face so the first layer being printed is the layer you will look at when using the stencil. The last layer to be printed will become the back of the stencil and its rougher texture will help the stencil grip paper better than the smoother first layer.</p> <p>Any layer height should work as long as each layer is solid. Setting your infill to 100% rectilinear will take care of this concern.</p> <p><strong>Tips and Tricks</strong></p> <p>Printing the first layer is critical as it contains a lot of small details around each stencil shape. To avoid imperfections, try manually slowing your print speed to 50%. Once the first layer is complete you can increase speed although I prefer to leave it at 50% for a worry free print.</p> <p>Printing this model, especially if you are using PLA on a textured sheet can be a bit tricky due to the model length.</p> <p>If you find the corners lifting up early in the print, you may want to try lowering your first layer Z offset.</p> <p>If you find the corners lifting up only towards the very end of the print, try raising your bed temperature a bit or lowering your first layer Z offset a bit more.</p> <p>If you find that you only get the slightest hint of lifting towards the very end of your print, you can attempt a manual fix. Find a plastic toothbrush or non-metal hand tool and be around when your print finishes. Once the print head stops moving, use the handle of your tool and flatten any corner that is lifting up. You may need to press and hold for a few seconds, check the corner, and then press and hold again as many times as needed. If the technique works, you will not have to worry about cold bending, sanding, or other post processing tasks.</p> <p>Oh and do not lift a just printed warm model off the print bed until it has completely cooled. I have a very wavy stencil that while amusing, will never be flat or useful for its intended purpose. ;)</p> <p><strong>Model Source File</strong></p> <p>This model was created with <a href="https://www.blender.org/download/">Blender</a> and was designed with modifiers to be as easy to edit as possible.</p> <p>If you would like access to the source file for your own personal use, please consider joining one of my <a href="https://www.patreon.com/nightmode">Patreon</a> tiers for that benefit. You can sign up for a month and download everything I have published up to and including that month. For ongoing Patrons, you will also get access to future creations, updates, software, and more.</p>