Light Corexy for 2020 profile base on Flsun cube 3D printer

thingiverse

First off, apologies for any language mistakes. I decided to rebuild my Flsun cube corexy to print on the entire surface of the hotbed. Initially, I was using HEVO parts from various sources for a 2020 profile, but there were some issues, so I looked elsewhere. After watching videos by Tech2C, I decided to create something similar tailored to my needs. My goals were: - Maximize use of original parts from my kit - Place the corexy between two top profiles (I need to maintain a 94mm distance since I already have cut flanks) without losing height on the Z axis - Make it as light as possible - Allow for flexibility with different types of Z sensors - Create a simple fan duct for easy switching between E3D V6 and Volcano heatblock I designed it using 10mm elox aluminum rods (like Tech2C) with 45mm center distance. The aluminum rods are 10 outer and 8 inner diameter, so I put an 8mm carbon rod inside to make them stronger. For the X axis, I used two IGUS bearings 10x19x55, and for the Y axis (with original 8mm steel rods), four IGUS 8x16x25. The pulley is six 20-toothed, with two of the same diameter without teeth, and a timing gear is 16-toothed (100 steps/mm with 16 microsteps). A fan for the heatsink is 40x40x20, and two radial fans are 40x40x10 for the fan duct. I also made motor holders and back pulley holders for 2020 profiles. For now, I've only created a fanduct for E3D V6 and a holder for the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor - I'll add other variants later (but they're simple parts, so everyone can create their own). Probe offset from the extruder is 32 for X and 16 for Y. I printed all parts with ABS, 30% infill, 2 perimeter, 0.16mm layer height - some nuts need to be placed using a soldering station. Almost all screws are 3mm diameter except those on the endstop and radial fans, which are 2mm and 4mm screws on 2020 profiles. The holder for IGUS bearings needs to be very accurate; some sharpening may be necessary. The only part I printed with support is the Y carriage - in others, you just need to find the correct position for printing. The part with "left" in its name needs to be mirrored for the right side. All parts I uploaded were printed and tested - they're working well. Edit: 2019-05-18 I reworked several parts - mainly, I rebuilt my printer from bowden to direct BMG dual drive extruder with Volcano hotend and Bltouch sensor. The X IGUS holder was divided into two parts for simpler composition. Edit: 2019-09-12 I redid the fanduct for the direct extruder because the bottom part was too thin and close to the hotend, causing deformation of the fanduct even when it's from ABS (in a closed chamber, I have 60-65°C). Second, I created parts for my second printer - built on the Tatra frame. The X carriage for standard E3D V6 hotend can be used on this printer. Here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3836741