Lifting Deck Box With Window Remix

thingiverse

An attempt to get the [100 Double Sleeve Card Deck Lifting Deck Box With Window Prototype](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644548) in a 3D printable form that can 3D print and assemble. Assembly, preview, and issues at https://youtu.be/j1bZWL2uygE This has been on my TODO list for a while, and I was expecting to be the first to try, but it seems like [99Demons](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5995796) recently had the same idea and beat me to it. ## Caveat **I DO NOT RECOMMEND MAKING THIS THING FOR ITS ORIGINAL PURPOSE!**: This thing has a few improvements on the original design that make it possible to assemble. Still, it has significant functional issues. * The lift box isn't constrained to 1DOF vertical translation. It has an extra rotation that causes jerkiness and could lead to mechanical failure. * When closing the box, the floor doesn't lower fast enough. Cards cannot clear the lid in certain situations. **This can easily lead to damaged cards.** See the last 4th of the video for more details. While I was initially hoping it would be a viable design, I can't recommend it with its current issues. It's posted here in case anyone was curious how the original would have worked if its 3D printing and assembly problems were addressed. ## Parts Additional screws and locknuts are required. The locknuts are optional. - x4 M3-12 Socket Head screws - Connect the gears to their axis. - x4 M3 Nylon Lock Nuts - Secure the M3 screws - x6 M2-20 Socket Head screws - The hinges for the back sectional wall ## Printing Models should already be oriented correctly for printing. - Base x1 - Lid x1 - LiftBox - BackBot x1 - BackTop x1 - FrontSpur x2 - This is either a FrontSpur_Single, or a combination or FrontSpur_Two_A and FrontSpur_Two_B. The "Two" version is in case you want the outside axis and the spur gear to be different color filaments (and don't have a newfangled multi-filament printer). - BackSpur_A x2 - BackSpur_B x2 ## Assembly 1. For the Spur parts, remove any loose filament in the recessed areas. 1. If using the FrontSpur_Two_* models: 1. Push in the lock nuts for FrontSpur_Two_B. Do this before engaging with Two_A to avoid damaging Two_A's finish. You will probably need tools, and be careful not to crush the edges of the part. 1. Clear the square socket area if you do crush the part (life happens) and plastic gets pushed into the square socket. 1. Connect Two_A to Two_B. 1. Thread in an M3 screw. Make sure the screw doesn't extend past the bore. 1. If using the FrontSpur_Single model, thread in the M3 screws. These aren't functional, but they keep the gear axes looking consistent. 1. Push lock nuts into BackSpur_A. 1. Put the FrontSpur_* gears into the holes in the front (window side) - spur gears should be inside the box. 1. Put the BackSpur_A gears into the holes in the back - spur gears should be inside the box. There are no markings on the proper orientation of the gear, so any orientation will do for now. 1. Place the LiftBox so the Rack fits in between the spur gears. 1. Check the flat side of the back spurs, and adjust them so the flat side lines up with the back of the box. Adjust one gear at a time: 1. Estimate how many teeth the gear should be rotated to align. 1. Move the lift box upward until the gear can barely rotate freely, but keep it inside the box so the other gears don't fall out. 1. Adjust the gear. In order to maintain control, make sure the gear isn't freely rotating - the teeth should make a clicking sound when rotating. 1. Push the lift box back in. 1. Reevaluate and iterate until correct. 1. Place the lid on the box 1. Key BackSpur_B through the lid and BackSpur_A. This will pin all their axis rotations together. Make sure the Lid and BackSpur_A are properly aligned first. 1. Put a M3 screw through BackSpur_B. 1. Place BackTop and BackBot on the back - top on top, bottom on bottom. This is referred to as the back sectional wall. 1. Once the Back* pieces are aligned with each other, take them off the back of the box and put two M2 screws through the middle bores so they hinge with each other. 1. Place the back sectional wall assembly back on the box 1. Screw in the other 4 M2 hinge bores. ## Modifications * Similar to 99Demons, the joinery system is removed, and the box parts are merged into one piece. * A double keying system was added to pin the lid rotation with the back spurs. * The axes for the front spurs extend to the outside, so the front and back spurs have symmetrical appearances on the outside. * Tolerances were adjusted. * Back sectional wall modified to hinge using M2 screws instead of 3D printed pins. Added recessed areas for M2 sockets, and bore diameters were modified. * Excess geometry for interlocking the box with the sectional walls was removed.