Lever n°1 for Virpil/Thrustmaster Joystick Grips

prusaprinters

<h3><strong>Press Like for encouragement. Comment for improvement.</strong></h3><p>With the DCS module Mi-24 being released, I wanted the matching joystick. I added the missing brake lever to my joystick.</p><h3><strong>Materials:</strong></h3><ul><li>M3x 10mm bolt + nut.</li><li>M3x 16mm bolt + nut.</li><li>Optional compression springs (5mm in diameter, 20mm in length and 0.8mm wire diameter).</li><li>Rotary potentiometer.&nbsp;</li><li>5-pin JST PH male connector plugged into the base.</li></ul><h3><strong>Assembly:</strong></h3><ol><li>The pictures are worth 1000 words.</li><li>The 3D printed inner bolt has inverted threads.</li><li>Plug the potentiometer wires either:<ul><li>on an Arduino Leonardo/Pro Micro, get the joystick library and follow the examples in <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BuiltInExamples">Arduino tutorial chapter 3</a>.</li><li>Check first if your circuit board looks like mine on the picture.&nbsp;<ul><li>On the joystick's base, look at the bigger circuit board. Look for the 2x 4-pin connectors (1 on each side, each one for a hall effect sensor) There are 2 free pins next to them. That's where the signal from the potentiometer goes. Take the + and the ground from the free “AUX” 5-pin connector. Check the picture for more details.</li><li>When the wiring is done and the grip is connected, open the Virpil's configuration's tool, define 2 new axis (double click on a free axis) and calibrate them. That's it. Just take your time, it's very easy.</li></ul></li></ul></li></ol><h3><strong>Known Issues and Solutions:</strong></h3><ul><li>4 remixes are available.</li><li>Tested on the Thrustmaster F-16 Cougar/Warthog grip.</li><li>If you own a Virpil, the <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/153544-lever-for-virpil-joysticks">neck variant</a> is more resilient.</li></ul><h4><strong>Disclaimer:</strong>&nbsp;</h4><ul><li>Plastic isn't as resilient as the metal of the grip.<br>If you can make the inner bolt out of metal: do. Otherwise consider resin print. If it's not an option, don't be cheap on the plastic. Use PLA or stronger, go 100% infill and print with an angle (orientation of a potential crack to filament layer). Adapt the joystick response curves so you don't yank your stick like a mad man. Then it'll be fine.</li></ul>