Left Rail Mounted PI & LCD Connector for Ender 3v2

thingiverse

Left Rail Mounted PI & LCD Connector for **Ender 3v2** I Couldn't find one that I was sure would fit my Pi 4b with case so I built my own - enjoy **Pi clearance: W: 85mm H: 33mm L: 110mm** Created from the butchering of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5401852 and fitting it to a custom box and hollowed rails so ideal print position is on it's back for more strength in the rail attachment. I had hoped it would go on from the back thus not requiring the removal of the front plate but it's a little too close to the Z limiter to pass... needs a slight increase in the distance of the rails for a rear fitting - but I'm not entirely sure the cable will reach it's furthest point forward (without hitting the Y assembly) without repositioning it in the undercarriage or getting a longer one so I think it's best in the front - if you do want to extend the rails for the back it's easy with tinkercad... if you want it in the front, well those rails stick out a bit much (just not quite enough) you may want to bring them in about 3mm - as you can see from the one pic it's a tough placement to ensure the Y assembly doesn't hit it. You may notice in the pictures I had to break off the side piece to get the wires in, it's much tighter in there then I imagined and while that hole would be perfect (well a little short for the headphone jack) without a case, with the case it needs to be raised about half way up the wall... but breaking that particular wall away is scarily simple, as are the ventilation slits - I'm glad I cheeped out with the circle up top which I hope fits the camera (wire) I don't have as with the two prints I've done both slits broke accidentally and could maybe use thickening... The back vertical wall and the bottom both print a layer or two of fill inside and I think on a reprint I'd remove that to help speed it up though those walls are extremely durable I don't think such durability is needed unless it's around steel toes and I doubt the rails could take it though I tried to make them as strong as possible when printed vertically by hollowing them (or the slicer would make a easy break line between the box and rails, this forced it to go around). I don't think I'm going to reprint this anytime soon as it's a 16HR marathon at low quality, so if you make the above changes please add it to thingverse and leave me a comment so I can see.