LED dice 29mm Harald edition

thingiverse

This thing is a small dice derived from my universal cube system. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3926580 I have it designed on request by Harald Sattler. Here you are. Update: Harald complained about messing with his website. Not true! He wants you to visit his website. Please bear with him, bring up his hit counters. Anyway, I've removed a link to the depicted PCB. Point at something, lead the reader directly to the target. This is how the Internet works. Give people's work respect. Give them credit; sometimes pledge them some money. Buy them a coffee. But ignore stupid hard way IP protection efforts. No offense intended. If you're trying to enforce something, I'll simply remove your stuff from my thing. PERIOD! RELAX man! With no doubt, there are exist a few (or many?) solutions using multilexed or charlieplexed LEDs. Henrik Haftman made some hard and software designs https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/ Example: turnaround LED light PCB file (Eagle format) https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Eagle.zip Schematics: https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Rundum.png https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Rundum2.png https://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/LEDs/Eagle.zip/rundum4.wmf?bin=SVG He declares all his stuff comes (when available) with Open Source software. So I assume nobody can start stupid DMCA requests. Many readers are capable enough to make their own electronics. Dear readers! Please make a local copy of the projects files. No matter where they came from. When you make something, it would be a good idea to save time files before they get lost anytime soon. The cube size is 29mm. Please take a simple CR1616 or CR2032 coin cell with lead wires or DIY made with heatshrink tube. If you're going to make a PCB, DO NOT round the corners! A square makes it much easier to place the PCB safely. It allows for cutting off some plastic if soldered on parts occupy more space. If you don't agree with Harald's claims, make your own design. The required PCB size is a square of no more than 25.6.mm x 25.6mm -NO cell coin holder please; the spacing inside the cube is tight -Please use transparent or translucent filament here. The light from the tiny LEDs will not pass the black filament. I do NOT own a PCB according to the files provided by Harald Sattler on his website. Please read: http://www.harald-sattler.de/html/attiny-würfel.pdf The build hight of the stacked parts inside the cube may vary. Pls, fill up the gap. Otherwise the tactile switch could fall inside the cube when pushing it hard. The files: -electronics schematics file -PCB design files provided by Harald Sattler (Eagle format) -content of the website page as a pdf-file translated trough Google. -assembly instruction (pictures only), needs to be modified still. -the printable parts - the top (cover) with tactile switch - the base with electronics, cell coin battery - Distanzring / Shim( have no clue how you call it) it can be used as a retainer or to bridge a gap. Scale it to the thickness you want. The Code: No code provided by me. See Harald's website. He goes over some details on the code. He describes how he transformed the PIC controller based electronics to ATTiny hardware. His code is using routines what puts the MCU to sleep when not active. Printing the parts requires some attention. By chance, the printer setup requires printing support or skirt alongside the rounded edges. If you dislike printing support or skirt; the stupid Up! software insists of printing it with support (leaving no other choice) cut off a small portion from the top face of the parts (stl-file). The LED face front section has a thickness of 0.6mm. It can be tricky to find the right spot. Recommended printing with NO raft. From my experience: I made a print using raft; it ripped the filament out of the small holes when separating the raft from the part.