LED Bridge Lamp Remix

thingiverse

As soon as I saw Opossums' brilliant bridge lamp design, I had to create a custom version! This remix is the result of issues I encountered while trying to print a few of the original pieces. None of the issues were caused by the original design. The feet and the LED guides and channels have been replaced with custom versions. I encountered shifting in the x-axis while trying to print the original foot base. Repeated attempts resulted in the same issue. I then decided to design my own foot base using Fusion 360, but I still encountered shifting in the x-axis. I finally identified the issue as being in the “silent mode” where steps were skipped, not a problem with the printer or software. I redesigned the foot base and created new STL files for the feet and other parts. The customized STL files used are: Blank_Plug_Style2 v3.stl, BridgeBaseMama v4.stl, BridgeBasePapa v3.stl, ExtensionBase.stl, ExtensionMain_WithHole.stl, ExtensionMain_WithOutHole.stl, FeatherPlatform.stl, foot_redo_style5 v3.stl, FootTop.stl, LED_guide_one_piece_style2 v6.stl, PermaProtoPlatform.stl, Power_USB_Plug_Style2 v3.stl. All other parts were printed with PLA, generally using the following parameters: Layer height: 0.2 mm, First layer height: 0.2 mm, Perimeters: 3 or 5, Horizontal shells: Top: 3 Bottom: 5, Infill: 10%, Fill pattern: Cubic, Top/bottom fill pattern: Rectilinear, Brim: none, Supports: none (except for foot_redo_style5 v3.stl). I lost track of how much print time was involved but estimate maybe 200 hours. Each main foot (foot_redo_style5 v3.stl) alone completed in 31h27m using Slic3r’s default print speeds. Had I to redo this project, I would certainly probably do some design changes as this noob learned more about Fusion 360's features. I would also suggest printing in a filament a bit more flexible than PLA. Attempting to connect/disconnect segments after the LED channels have been glued in can cause the tabs to break off. Be sure to leave the 3M adhesive tape backing on the LED strips. I would also suggest allowing for extra LEDs in your strips and to slide in your LED strips as you combine a segment to other segments. All in all, I learned a great deal about modeling using Fusion 360 and 3D printing using Slic3r and the Original Prusa I3 MK2 3D Printer, not to mention patience! A Fritzing diagram and Arduino code demonstrating the LED programmability are included with this remix.