LDO Apogee for BMS w/ bl/cr-touch and Orbiter 2 mount for Ender 5 -WIP-
prusaprinters
EDIT jan 17 23 - when finally putting on Orbiter 2, there were some problems. I fixed the issues, reprinted, and all seems well now. Orbiter 2 sits in the proper location, mounting holes are fixed, as well as the wire management chimney corrected to allow access to the tension knob. Old files are in depreciated folder in case someone happens to want them (you shouldn't imo). Sorry for the hiccups.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------LDO Apogee for Phaetus Dragonfly BMS hotend (incl mount for Orbiter 2.0 and cr/bl touch) for Ender 5 x-axis carriage plate. I wasn't happy with a few things so I did this mod. This is NOT official or approved by LDO, if they ask I'll take it down (no listing to indicate this is a remix - hopefully won't end up getting removed)----------------------------------------------------------------------------So the original wasn't made to work with the Ender 5 carriage plate, so I basically mirrored the model. I didn't like losing the little bit of real estate on the y-axis due to being slightly bulky, so I trimmed it close to where the front of the hotend mount is on the carriage plate. As a result I also had to adjust the mounting and filament holes for the Orbiter 2 as well as slightly extending the front so the fanshroud fit properly without the fans hitting the backplate. The edit also messed up the ability to insert both nuts for the abl mount, so I made it so you can still screw in the second screw, but it only sits in plastic and close to the nut for the Orbiter mount (so don't overtighten). Adjusted where the indentions in the back are for the wheel bolts as well.I added in a small “port” of sorts to put the wires though coming from the fans/heater/thermistor going to the chimney. I shortened the chimney cover as well as added a slight notch on the inside to help hold it in place (due to removing the ability to screw it in place like the original, just use a zip tie through the top holes and around the chimney).I also removed a small amount of material where the side fans sit in the fan shroud, as they were too tight for the fans I could get (also to work better with the stock ender blower fans). If your blower fans fit the original fanshroud, then it should fit with no issues as far as mounting up, so no need to reprint.For the abl mount, I've included 2. One is close to stock (slightly modded to line up with the modified hotend/orbiter mount) which gets in the way of the belt attachment point, so your belt has to be on before adding on this. The other I trimmed the outer edge off, in an attempt to make it not in the way of the belt mount but still work with the abl. Both are currently untested, but after mounting probe (cr-touch not shown in picture) it looks like it may get in the way of belt removal either way, so it'd probably be best to put either one on after adding the belts onto the carriage.Pictured with different hotend in place due to waiting for hotend to arrive later this week. This should work with the stock Ender 3/5 hotend as it's pretty much the same size, but remains untested. YMMV.I also have included a collar for the Orbiter motor, as I prefer to have it rotated to where the wires are closer to vertical than below the motor (as it caused a previous motor wire to break in that position). It works as a stress relief point so the wires don't bend at the motor and break off, not a necessary part but it's there if you'd like to give it a go. untested with this setup but currently using with a different orbiter/bms setup I made and it seems to work well.So far it seems to work well though I have yet to fully test it out with everything in place. Overall the assembly looks great, using 4010 blower fans and a smaller front fan (like the one from a v6 hotend setup, don't know the exact size unfortunately - took mine from a cheap clone -not in picture).Untested but should work with any rail setup that uses the Ender 5 backplate. The model fits the width of the backplate, so you shouldn't lose anything on the x-axis, and very minimal if any on the y axis. The z distance you can do should be unaffected as well, which is always awesome news.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------This is a work in progress, until I get a chance to test everything out. But it appears to be good to go as is. Try it out at your own risk till then, not responsible for any damages you may do to anything, and so on.Hardware used is all 3mm button head socket cap screws 10mm in length (8 count) and 1 3mmx8mm for mounting hotend plate to carriage (to the left of the hotend area). 7-M3 square low profile nuts are used (same as in the official model, I think 1 less iirc). I don't think regular hex nuts will work (too thick?).Thanks for looking! Feel free to post comments and suggestions, I'll get to them as soon as I can.note: file names are crazy due to not renaming them from working in Tinkercad. Some of the screen shots show artifacts on the models from the edits, but do not show up on the prints themselves.Also if anyone has a spare Ender 5 carriage plate, I would happily take it off your hands (message me with price).
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