LCD + Hyperpixel 4" touchscreen cover

prusaprinters

<p>LCD cover that works with the awesome Hyperpixel 4" touchscreen.<br/> No fitment issues from other similar covers.</p> <p>This is for: MK3/MK3S/MK3S+</p> <p>Letters stl is also included if you want to make this a multi color print.</p> <p>Update 2021-02-06: I made the mounts bigger and stronger while complementing the overall look of the cover.</p> <p>The RPi + Hyperpixel screen will slide in properly, not too snug. The cover itself is centered properly for an MK3S. The angle of the cover maximizes getting as close to the original as possible, keeping clearance with the surface below, and still allows the default knob (and custom ones) to have proper clearance with the print bed.</p> <p>This cover does recommend you solder power onto your RPi. Honestly if you are going to power the Hyperpixel 4" screen + a camera + cpu fan + Octoprint, you are risking it by going in with a USB connector, even one with 18 gauge wires. As such I recommend you solder 18 gauge wires onto the solder pads on your RPi, and wire those into a reliable 5V power source with at least 3 amps. See included picture for which solder pads to use. VCC=PP1/PP2. Ground=PP3/4/5/6</p> <p>The main LCD screen will mount using the same screws and method as the original. I started with the Prusa .step file for the LCD cover. You can hack away with the included Fusion 360 design if you like.</p> <p>Though it will still work if you don't do this, I highly recommend you also trim the headphone jack on your RPi, since it sticks out more than anything else, and that 2mm matters. You won't be connecting headphones to this, so it shouldn't be an issue. Using a knife, score around the headphone jack, then snip it off with some wire cutters. I included pictures to show this.</p> <p>For anyone asking, yes you can run a FanShim with a Hyperpixel 4". The key to doing this is to disable the fan's LED and button when you setup the software for FanShim. Follow the standard installation for the FanShim, and when you get to the part where you run the <code>install-service.sh</code> script, add the <code>--noled --nobutton</code> options to the command. I ran with just a heat sink and would get an occasional heat warning. Since installing the fan I've had no issues, even inside my enclosure.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p><strong>Printing both the Letters and LCD cover multi-color using PrusaSlicer.</strong></p> <p>The included .3mf file does all this for you, but if you insist on doing it yourself here are the steps:</p> <ol> <li>Add the LCD Cover.stl</li> <li>Add the Letters.stl</li> <li>Select just Letters, and change the Position: x=175.85, y=74.5</li> <li>Select both the Letters and LCD cover, make sure you have them both selected, and do the following moves in this order: rotate-Z=325, translate-X=5, translate-y=8. The values will reset to 0 after you do each one. Once done the part should now show as green and "printable" in PrusaSlicer</li> <li>Since we rotated the part by -35 degrees, we should set the Fill angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter. As such set infill angle to: 10</li> <li>Since we rotated things by -35 degrees, we should also set the Bridging Angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter when bridging letters. Set this to: 325</li> <li>Supports from build plate only (for the mounts)</li> <li>Set extruders for each part</li> <li>Slice and check the first 1-2 layers to make sure the letters are lined up perfectly. You may need to go back to step 2, and change y= by .25mm.</li> <li>I recommend you increase your purging volumes as well. Especially if you are printing dark letters on a bright cover (ie: black on orange). There's only a few tool changes, so you aren't wasting much filament. I set mine to 140mm for both loaded and unloaded on the 2 colors being used. </li> </ol> <p><strong>Printing just the cover</strong></p> <ol> <li>After adding the cover, rotate-Z=325</li> <li>Offset X by 4 and Y by 6 and the part should show green on the bed for printing.</li> <li>Since we rotated the part by -35 degrees, we should set offset the infill angle accordingly to minimize any gaps along the perimeter. As such set infill angle to: 10</li> <li>Supports from build plate only (for the mounts)</li> <li>Slice and print</li> </ol> <p>Layer Height = 0.2mm</p>