Large Strong Waterproof Boat Fully 3D Print 3650/3660/3670 Motor

thingiverse

This is my largest design yet, based on a classic gentleman's launch from the 1930s that I already had model plans for. You can see the original at http://www.brackleyboats.com/files/brackley/Product_Pictures/1279500477.jpg. Measuring in at nearly 550mm long, this boat is big and robust, designed to withstand the sea. The 4mm shell has inner side shells that provide a double layer of protection against water. It's also designed to be completely watertight, with water cooling holes that can be sealed if not needed. The spoiler on the back acts as a carry handle but its main purpose is to help the boat self-right if it rolls over. All parts print without support, except for the "body back" which needs support inside for the servo mount and the "topback(hatch)" which also requires support to print. Each part has alignment pins for gluing together. I recommend printing with a raft to reduce warping on the layers. I used Gorilla glue epoxy and it worked really well. I printed this design on my Tronxy P802MA, so each section is designed to fit within a 200x200x200 build space. I used two outer walls and 10% infill with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.3mm layers. It should all be able to print with one 1KG spool, although I didn't have a fresh one, which is why it came out purple. You'll need the following parts: * A 3650 motor or equivalent (available on eBay) * About 20 M3 10mm bolts * Four M3 nuts for the top hatch * Epoxy or similar * An 138 servo (I used a HKing 138 Standard 1-10 servo, available on eBay) You'll also need to cut down the rudder to fit in the hull. I used a medium-sized rudder and had to trim it slightly. Propeller: * You can use any propeller you like, but I recommend using a left-right 2-vane rotating RC boat propeller (available on eBay) * Prop shaft: you'll need a 10 inch/250mm prop shaft with an 8mm diameter and a 4mm shaft Battery: * You'll need a 2200mah to 3000mah battery, although I suspect it could handle larger batteries. Small universal joint: * You can use any small universal joint you like, but I recommend using a steel coupling Huco-type 3-2mm-to-4mm RC model boat universal joint (available on eBay) Once all parts are printed, glue the hull pieces together in turn. I roughed up the ends of each part before gluing for better adhesion and used tape to provide pressure while drying. Next, install the hardware and electronics. Make sure they're all working properly, including the motor turning in the right direction. Then, glue the prop shaft and rudder tube into their position and grease them well once the glue has set. Finally, you can glue on the hatch parts (which were purple in my example) and install the M3 nuts into the slots on the side. I glued mine into position to prevent water from getting in. There's a slot in the bottom for a velcro strap to secure the battery, and you can bolt on the spoiler with some M3 bolts. This part is optional. I've already tested this design by throwing it into the sea, and it just bobs up and goes! The inside stayed completely dry. I'm eager to test it in rougher conditions and will update this post with a video once I manage to take one (my first test had a problem with the motor being wired in reverse).