Kossel Mini Magnetic Ball Joint End Effector Upgrade

thingiverse

First off, I'd really appreciate it if you could like, follow and share my content if you find these designs useful! And if you have any ideas or concepts to modify the content, I'm all ears! UPDATE (28/10/2017): I've added a new part to my Thingiverse Page for those who want to convert their roller carriage style Kossel printer to magnetic joints. You can check it out here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2611279. This is a magnetic ball joint upgrade for the Kossel Mini 3D printer range that uses HIWIN style linear rails. The end effector is designed to work with e3d V6 style hotends and various clones available in the market. It's a direct replacement for the rose/ball joint Micromake Kossel Mini sold by flsun. The effector also allows for auto bed levelling using a limit switch and the nozzle as the means of detecting the bed surface location. You can assemble the kit with a wide variety of parts, though it's been designed around the use of 10mm magnetic ball joints. The finishing parts for this upgrade can be purchased here http://www.chimesindustries.com/shop or from various online stores. Print it, assemble it, and try it out! Let me know what you think about the increase in rigidity using magnetic joints and linear guide rails on the Kossel printer designs. It really improves print output and removes the 'slop' in the system. I've added some images showing a possible part cooling setup for the magnetic joint setup. You can see them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2364103 and here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2364083. There are mounts for e3d V5 and V6 hotends (~23mm and ~25mm OD heatsink) and clone variants. Also, if you can't accurately measure the length of the rods to within tenths of a millimetre (0.1mm), this print might be helpful: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2355506. You can mount it to a piece of open beam aluminium extrusion (e.g. one of your delta printer towers) and then each rod placed in the jig, adjusted to length and then fastened. This will ensure your rods are the same length and you won't experience any disconnects during printing and operation.