Kossel effector plate, clamp, and Z-probe mount. Multiple spacings 33.6mm, 40mm, and 42.5mm

thingiverse

This assembly plate and clamp should work with E3D style hotends - including direct clones. The assembly plate was designed to be finished with a simple machining operation for the best precise fit. See the instructions. It won't work as printed without additional machining. When I ordered the tie rod ball joint pack set from Robotdigg (DR001) I discovered it came with two different types of ball ends. Since most carriages and assembly plates are 40mm width, I needed a way to maintain an identical center to center distance on both the carriage and assembly without resorting to washers or flipping balls around trying to get things to work. I decided the best solution was to simply model a new assembly plate with a 33.6mm width. When mounting the "large revo ball" from Robotdigg on the new assembly, an identical spacing can be achieved with the smaller balls mounted on the carriage. If the ball spacing isn't identical, the rods won't be precisely parallel and the assembly will not track parallel across the bed. I have also included a standard 40mm width assembly for those of you who are using identical balls top and bottom. The Z-probe mount will work with a rod as small as 2.5mm diameter. It can of course be drilled out if you wish to go to 3mm or whatever. The spacing of the holes in the z-probe mount matches the spacing of the mounting holes in the RobotDigg SS-5GL Snap action Limit Switch. The Z-probe offset (from the nozzle) has been reduced to 16.5mm. That was about as tight as I could make it and still comfortably clear the heat-sink fins. Should work with both V5 and V6 style hotends. All parts (except the little clip spring retainer) were modeled from scratch in DesignSpark Mechanical. The .rsdoc files are included. UPDATE: I just acquired one of those Chinese Mini-Kossel kits with the injection molded carriages. I measured the ball post width on these carriages and they were around 42.5mm. So, I just added a 42.5mm assembly version for that printer... Instructions: IMPORTANT NOTE: For a precise fit of the hotend heatsink in the assembly plate, you will need to chuck up the assembly plate in a lathe and make sure it is perfectly centered. Then use a 5/8" endmill to bore the hole to a depth of 4mm. Extra material has been left in the model to accommodate this operation. Your hotend will not seat into the assembly plate if this step is not performed. Other tolerances might be tight depending on your printer calibration. Scale slightly or sand and file as needed. Use the clip spring retainer with two springs from an inkpen stacked together on the Z-probe. The setscrew hole can be tapped M3. The limit switch for the Z-probe uses M2.5 screws. They should easily self-tap into the Z-probe mount of you don't have an M2.5 tap. Also, on the Z-probe, make sure you wire in a pull-up resistor to limit current to the endstop input on your controller board. The clip spring retainer comes from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:439497 Full credit given. It is such a simple part, I saw no point in modeling a new one.