Klipper Screen mount for FLSUN SR (UPDATED)

thingiverse

NOTE: I have changed some things since making this to fix problems and make things better, if things don't work and or don't fit together anymore, try to contact me and ill get it fixed. YOU WILL NEED: Raspberry pi 4 (Might work with other raspberry pi's aswell) [Important:] The USB C Cable connector for the pi must be short or in best case angled to fit this install(I Bought an angled 0.9m Cable, if you can find one that is shorter then that would be better) Big Tree Tech TFT50 Screen 8 M2.5 screws 3 Brass M3 Inserts 3 M3 Screws [Optional:] 6 Ø5x1.5mm Magnets and glue. PRINTING: Some files will have to be rotated in the slicer like shelf. Use support on Screenframe and shelf. You can probably print Screenframe without using the "Print-support" file and just generate support instead, but if you had troubles like me with the support getting ripped off the bed you can try using the "print-support" file. The reason for using 3mf files is that the relative coordinates are intact, that way the print-support and screenframe will line up just like I intended them to. To use the support-file do this: Import both the Screenframe(3mf) and the Print-support(3mf) at the same time and group them in the slicer(I used Cura 5.0), then import the rest of the files and arrange them all. After arranging ungroup the Screenframe and Print-support, then make print support into a support structure. (The reason for grouping them is that you want to keep the relative coordinates of those files so the support goes in the right place.) ASSEMBLY: Put M3 brass inserts into the three 4mm holes on the back of "Screen-Holder". Thread the holes in the shelf for the raspberry pi with an M3 tap. Flip the printer upside down (Remember to remove the filament holder and make sure that the bowden tube doesn't stick out too much). Disassemble the bottom plate of the printer and remove the "Drawer-box"(Where the drawer goes) and remove the back part of it. The hole needs to be big enough to feed both the power and USB-A cable through and a bunch of wiggle room for the cables. Insert the screen cable into the screen, then mount the screen in the "Screen-holder" using four M2.5 screws. Screw the Shelf to the Screen-holder using three M3 screws. Install the Raspberry pi on the shelf using 2 M3 screws and connect the screen cable. Connect the USB-A Cable and the angled USB C power cable to the pi and route them through the hole in the printers "Shelf-box"(Where the shelf/drawer goes). I powered the pi with a power brick that I plugged into an outlet that I spliced onto the printer's power switch cables using WAGO Bricks. I routed the USB-A cable through the printer's aluminium extrusions and up to the motherboard (See picture). After connecting everything slide the screen and shelf into the printer. Reassemble the bottom panel and flip the printer over again. Put the screen cover on and you are done! [(Optional) Glue Ø5x1.5mm Magnets to the screen-holder and screenframe(In the holes made for magnets), you might not have to use magnets at all therefore this is optional.] I Recommend adding a fan, I used a 4010 fan but you can use a 3010 fan instead and connect it directly to the raspberry pi or to the printer's powersupply. I also made it possible to use a blower fan with the shroud, i have not tested this though. When printing with the bed temp at 60°C: The pi was at 69°C without a fan or heatsink. The pi was at 59°C with a heatsink. The pi is now with heatsinks and a 4010 fan at 50°C I have probably missed quite a few things but you'll probably figure it out...