Kit Card Tree Parts,  Instructions and 3UDC Pivot mounts

Kit Card Tree Parts, Instructions and 3UDC Pivot mounts

prusaprinters

<p>Welcome to the Kit Card Tree Library with the 3UDC pivot mount and information on how to build a display for your kit card or anything else you opt to attach.</p><p>This project uses parts from several different projects. &nbsp; You will print the same parts over and over as you make mounts. &nbsp;Here are the links to those parts libraries.</p><ul><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/prints/126509">156DT Display Tree Library</a> (get your tower parts here)</li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/prints/126499">3UDC Accessory Library</a> (surface mounts, extensions here)</li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/social/116733-alwaystinkering/collections/120395">Printables COLLECTION Library of KitCard Platforms</a> (pickup platforms)</li><li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/alwaystinkering/collections/kit-card-tree-platform-collection">Thingiverse COLLECTION Library of KitCard Platforms</a> (pickup platforms)</li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/prints/126506">3UDC and 155DT Developers Library</a></li><li><a href="https://www.printables.com/prints/126495">Kit Card Tree Parts and the 3UDC pivot platform</a> <strong>(This Library)</strong></li></ul><p>There are hundreds of parts available to customize your build… plus things people will create. &nbsp;Sorry for sending you about but not everyone will want everything and this way things are somewhat organized by type.</p><p><strong>So What is this:</strong></p><p>Kit Cards are fun little flat model pieces that turn into a piece of artwork designed by some talented people. &nbsp;But what do you do with them when you are done? &nbsp;The desk for week, a drawer? &nbsp;Some you can hang from a string, but where?</p><p>Now you can mount your completed kit-card on a display mount that you can plug into a 3UDC socket wherever you happen to have one:</p><ol><li>On a display tree</li><li>Wall &nbsp;mount</li><li>desk pedestal</li><li>Side of a monitor</li><li>Wherever you want to render one.</li></ol><p>This project for you can be one piece you really want to display or an entire display that you build over time. &nbsp;</p><p><strong>How to get started:</strong></p><p>Build a tower or don't. &nbsp;You can use surface or table top mounts to get started.</p><p>The 3UDC socket and parts are interchangeable. &nbsp;The KitCard platform and sign brackets are customize for each kit. &nbsp; There is a generous .4mm tolerance applied to the socket allowing for a high rate of success in print / fit and options for print orientation.</p><p><strong>The Pivot mount with the 3UDC clip.</strong></p><p>You have to attributes in picking your pivot mount</p><ol><li>How far do you want it go come out from the socket</li><li>How high do you want the platform to be above the socket</li><li>There are also extensions in the 3UDC Accessory Library</li></ol><p><strong>The print…&nbsp;</strong></p><p>I have printed everything at .2mm layers with .4mm nozzle. &nbsp;For the all of the swivel mount parts and kit card mounting parts I have printed no more than 20% fill. &nbsp; If you print a 156DT tower read the notes in that library.</p><p>SUPPORTS: &nbsp;Support from build plate. &nbsp;It should add the slightest of support material around the ball and maybe the sign platform. &nbsp;If you don't support it the pivot ball will likely not form properly. &nbsp;I had to raise it off the build plate to increase the turn angle.</p><p>I have chosen an you pick the pieces model. &nbsp;This way you can pick what complements your print results.</p><ul><li>File: &nbsp;<strong>3UDC_swivel-block_rounded-edges_with-holes.stl</strong></li><li>File: <strong>3UDC_ball_spreader_pin_##mm.stl.</strong>&nbsp;<ul><li>I expect you will and between a two notch 2.4mm and three notch 2.6mm.</li></ul></li><li>File: <strong>3UDC_pivot-arm-top-clip_##mm-out_height_##mm.stl</strong></li><li>The Kit Card Deck of your choice</li><li>The Kit Card sign-holder… if you want. &nbsp; You could glue the sign to the post.</li></ul><p>The sign holder is the most iffy to print for some people. &nbsp; It is very small and has a lot of detail. &nbsp;You can opt out and glue the sign to the post or design some other solution. &nbsp;The front of the post has a small deck to stabilize the sign. &nbsp; The sign-holders and most mounts were designed to be glue-less.</p><p>The signs are the signs from the FULL KIT with the frame. &nbsp; Cut the excess plastic from the edges of the sign leaving any frame if it has it. &nbsp;Some designers use a frameless model and your sign holder will account for that.</p><p><strong>Where to find the kit card decks</strong></p><p>I have decided to put the decks as remixes with the posted kit cards. &nbsp;With so many parts I can only maintain them in one spot. &nbsp;If you have a mounting deck to contribute, put it with the kit card so people can see their options. &nbsp;You can find the ones I have done any any people tell me about by going to the COLLECTION links in the links at the top.</p><p><strong>The Pivot and the spreader Install and Adjustment</strong></p><p>The pivot top gives you 360 degrees of rotation with 18-20 degrees tilt. &nbsp; It is tensioned by a pin you drive into the ball to wedge it apart. &nbsp;This is a DISPLAY PIVOT, not a constantly adjust tripod style pivot. &nbsp;</p><p>The pivot may take need to be gently rocked back and forth to loosen before a turn. &nbsp;It sounds like grinding gears… but no problem, your objective is the position, not the tone of the turn. &nbsp;Wedges are inserted from the bottom of the pivot. &nbsp;I originally had it enter through the top, but you could not easily change it while your kit-card was installed.</p><p>The PLA will loosen under the pressure, using a tight pin will reduce a need to replace the pin. &nbsp;You can put a rivet in the pin or not, the pressure will hold it. &nbsp; To remove the pin push it out at the base and pull. &nbsp; If you have to put a larger pin in, you should find this is only necessary once. &nbsp; There are multiple pins to choose from in .2mm differences in thickness (the layer height). &nbsp;The hole goes on the bottom.</p><p>Inserting the spreader. &nbsp; Put the pivot platform on, with or without your platform attached. &nbsp;Align the spreader towards the center of the pivot from the bottom between the tongs… give it a push. &nbsp;If it stops… try to keep it from jamming against the pivot… then gently turn the pivot platform a half turn or so… and push in further… once it clears the base of the tongs groove, push it in and secure with a rivet if desired.</p><p><strong>Adjusting your deck</strong></p><p>I printed lots of rejects to get decks that fit the models well. &nbsp;If you find it loose and it has long arms to hold the model you can momentarily heat and form the fingers closer… Momentarily on small pieces is brushing a match past.</p><p>If the arms are two tight and short:</p><p>If your model has tapered wings or mounting points, try sliding the narrow part in first then clicking the other side in. &nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Filament Rivets</strong></p><p>The assembly is held together with… Filament Rivets. &nbsp;These are pieces of filament where you use a hot iron… like a soldering iron… set to the lowest temperature if you have that option,</p><ol><li>melt one end to form a nail style head,&nbsp;</li><li>Let it cool</li><li>insert into the assembled parts</li><li>Trim it to about the thickness of a piece of filament</li><li>Seal it together melting the other end.</li></ol><p>A small set of side cutters can trim the ends off the rivets and release the parts.</p><p><strong>TREE Parts in the SAMPLE photo</strong></p><p>While I have created a wide variety of sizes, my strategy for my main Kit Card Tower was a compact tower with lots of planes.&nbsp;</p><p>I used a 10 position <strong>156DT_3UDC_Click-ring_114dia_10-station-Slots.stl</strong></p><p>I put the smaller planes on a <strong>3UDC_pivot-arm-top-clip_00mm-out_height_31mm.stl</strong> pivot arm keeping the small planes low and close to the hub. &nbsp;I then used a<strong> 3UDC_pivot-arm-top-clip_25mm-out_height_50mm.stl</strong> in the positions in between to keep them above the inner and low enough I could get another deck above. &nbsp; You can also use a 35mm out arm or if necessary put a small extension on ones you need.</p><p>Spacing I found with the parts above&nbsp;<strong> 156DT_shaft_085mm_sqr_105_spacing_for-20mm-high-hub.stl</strong> shaft to leave just enough space. &nbsp;</p><p>For details on tower attributes please refer to the comments in that library.</p><p><strong>GLUE on Pivot Option</strong></p><p>SO far I have designed 57 or so custom platforms. &nbsp;Except for two, all are designed to hold the model such that you can remove the model. &nbsp;I have included numerous GLUE-ON pivots. &nbsp;If you don't want your models to be removable from their mounts, you can use those or ones you design to glue them on. &nbsp;See the developer's library for a blank with no holes to help design your own.</p><p><strong>Deck Holes Spacing for make your own</strong></p><p>If you are attaching something new, the holes in the pivot platforms I am posting are 15.572mm apart on Center. &nbsp;Sorry… I did the spread as a percentage of size months ago not realizing the odd math. &nbsp;The hole I cast is 2.1mm in diameter.</p><p><strong>Credits:</strong></p><p>While I do not modify or re-print any kit cards, the creators of these cards clearly put a lot of work into them. &nbsp;Take &nbsp;a moment to show them a result or two.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

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