KissSmart

thingiverse

I designed a printer from scratch based on ideas from Smartrap and M Prime One and built it with parts from StarTT/TronXY XY-100. The main goal was to create a small, portable printer that can easily be disassembled and reassembled for travel, so I minimized the number of printed parts and made them as flat as possible. Connecting parts are straight rods or AL profiles that can be bundled together to prevent warping during transport. The printer is built and fully operational, proving the design works. As a learning experience, I redesigned most parts in Onshape, and some exist only there, such as the bottom support and swinging extruder mount. The project link is available here: KissSmart. The Onshape screenshot shows how I mounted the extruder at an angle to avoid interference with the filament when the Y gantry moves up. I used an Anicubic JHead extruder that I had, so the extruder mount is adjusted for it, but it should be easy to adjust for other extruders or the original StarTT one. You will also need 8x604 bearings for iddlers, 2x603 bearings for the extruder mount, and 1x605 bearing for the leadscrew support. The heat bed is an MK2B, and I recently bought another one - an Anet Upgraded MK3 heatbed, which has a larger build area. You will need to design another bed carriage to accommodate this new heat bed. The XEndRight160x160 will probably require a taller Z endstop mount, but that's for later. I used smaller limit switches as endstops for X and Y to minimize the impact on build volume. The leads were soldered, bent under the switch, and then heatshrink was applied to keep them in place. The cuts for the belt in front and rear are dimensioned for steel-reinforced belts, but I've since learned that they don't run well on small pulleys and can cause the steel core to fatigue fast. I designed a layer fan duct for 5015 radial fans and also created the Bottom_Support_Leg, which is designed to be used with longer ZSupport tubes that reach to the table and give bigger X stability. You should either print them upside down with supports or place them flat on the bed in the slicer like I did. I printed the parts in DevilDesign PETG and used tons of different M3 bolts, nuts, and washers. The parts are designed to be printed without supports, but you will need to clear some sacrificial bridges and embedded supports. You will also need 3mm and 4mm drill bits to clear the holes and some long M3 bolts to pull some of the nuts in place. The dated FreeCad files contain all the parts and are a bit messy, with circular dependencies and missing origins. I'll try to clean the source and fix the errors in the future, but since it still works as is, no promises. If you use StarTT electronics, you will need to modify the firmware to adjust for axis directions and limits, heatbed usage, and more powerful power supplies. The heatbed will also require an external MOSFET to keep the board safe. I added a YZ carriage for 8mm Y rods on 2019.01.12 and updated some files since then. I also made adjustments and cleaned up the file to make it easier to understand, edit, and use. Any comments, suggestions, or criticism are greatly appreciated.