Kenobi Lightsaber (2022 Series)

cults3d

DISCLAMER This is a non-commercial model made for serious Star Wars fans by a serious Star Wars fan. I've shared them for free as a way of giving back to the 3D printing community so don't be a jerk! Do not sell either the files or the prints! “Take this. Walk into the middle of the desert and bury it in the ground.” I've had mixed feelings about the Disney+ Kenobi show but I definitely wanted to create my own version of Ewan McGregor's new(ish) lightsaber prop. Hardcore fans might know that some lightsaber props (despite canonically being the same exact object) varied from movie to movie. Obi-Wan's lightsaber that first appeared in A New Hope in 1977 was heavily redesigned for it's next appearance in the Revenge of the Sith in 2005. The weapon we see in the Disney+ series is a hybrid of these two designs. For this project I've put aside the Episode IV lightsaber I've published some time ago and started from scratch. I've upgraded the bayonet-like slot twist lock mechanism (help me find a name for this!). Now it includes the snap fit and can be printed upside-down too. For the smaller parts I've added threads. This way (with the exception of the two small buttons) the model doesn't need glue to be assembled. On top of the printed parts you'll need: one M3*10 hex screw (or you can use the printed fake screw head) exactly two drops of glue PRINTING All parts are designed for support free FDM printing however you might need some extra cooling for the riflegrenade. Stringing or elephant feet might interfere with the fitting so try to eliminate those as much as possible. Print all parts with 0,15 mm layerheight. If you want to avoid painting, insert color changes on the riflegrenade at 24 mm and on the activator at 5,5 and again at 6,5 mm. Use brim for the inner part of the emitter if necessary. While you're printing check out the fake teaser I made! :) https://www.instagram.com/tv/CgMw1b0g1QM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link ASSEMBLY Glue the two buttons to the clamp. Press and slide the activator in place. Attach the covertec part to the heatsink. Add the M3*10 screw for more aesthetic value or glue in the fake screw for less. :) Attach the threaded parts of the saber. Attach the parts with the twist lock mechanism. Each connection is a bit different and if the parts are accurate you shouldn't have to use excessive force. Enjoy! :) If you liked it, check out my Graflex Lightsaber model on Cults3D. It's a few $ that supports my pizza addiction. :)