Katana Saber

thingiverse

A cutting-edge lightsaber inspired by a katana that I crafted for a Halloween costume prop. The pieces seamlessly twist together with minimal friction, although you could opt to glue them if desired. To power the lights and sounds, I repurposed the inner components from a toy lightsaber: this particular model. For the blade, I employed a fluorescent light tube guard that I sanded down to enhance its luminosity and lightly painted it red (a detail you can skip since the LED on the toy is already red). The design boasts a snug fit, necessitating some soldering to achieve the ideal wire length for the speaker and other components. Additionally, you'll need to devise a method to secure the 3 AAA batteries – I utilized this device to accomplish that task. A hole was drilled for the button, and a small standoff was created to activate the saber. The effort is well worth it, as the finished product features impressive light and sound effects. Enjoy! Print Settings Printer Brand: Ultimaker Printer: Ultimaker 2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.1mm Infill: 20% Assembly The parts lock together with a satisfying twist. Given my printer's tolerances, they stay secure with friction; however, if any piece becomes loose over time, you can apply a small amount of masking tape to the male end to increase friction and ensure a better hold. For the belt clip ring, you have two options: either print it first and carefully insert it into place as the hilt is printing or simply snip it near a corner and attach it afterwards using strong glue. Painting To achieve an aged saber effect, I applied filler primer, sanded the parts, and then spray-painted them in their base metallic colors – gold and silver. Next, I mixed black, brown, and yellow acrylic paint on an old brush to create a random, mottled effect. Cover the entire saber (assembled without electronics) with this paint, remixing and smudging as you go. Once the paint is dry, use a rag to rub off as much of it as possible – be prepared to get messy in the process! Repeat until you achieve the desired level of grime. I also darkened specific areas, such as the diamond shapes, by carefully applying paint and allowing them to dry before wiping. The saber was originally designed for a 1-inch outer diameter tube, but I was unable to procure one. Instead, I placed the tube over the protrusion on the emitter. To make it appear seamless while attached, I painted the end of the tube to resemble the emitter's end and then grunged it up to match. This technique not only hid the tape used for security but also added a touch of realism to the design. How I Designed This I created this design using 123d Design.