Jokers JTW HCC-2A 1911 Hi-Capa carbine -> 4.5mm steel BB CO2 version with silencer

thingiverse

This is my first post here, so please excuse any confusing details. I've created a remake of Jokers' excellent design, with big thanks to him for the inspiration. However, I found that his design didn't work well with a silencer, so I made some adjustments. The cocking handle on my version is positioned lower and has an extrusion for the silencer. I also repurposed the hole for the camera mount to keep the cocking handle in place. The interior of my design is spacious enough to accommodate larger sights, such as those found on a SIG 1911-22 or similar airsoft models. The rear part of the gun has been lengthened and strengthened, with a solid 25mm hole added for the buttstock. I've also enhanced the rails that keep the gun in place and raised the rail lock slightly. You can still use Jokers' original slot test if you prefer, and his tinnyrails should work just fine with aluminum. I've attached a remake of a nice design for the front grip from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897402. I made some adjustments to this design by cutting 1mm off the upper picatinny face because it was too tight with an aluminum rail. I also added an extrusion for the magazine, which should be snugly in place. The buttstock is a remake of this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:831288, where I used a 25mm tube and added a printed rail to it. This design is a good idea because MILSPEC tubing isn't regular and printing the whole thing would be a nightmare. The 25x2mm tube I used is cheap and easy to find. I've strengthened this design and made the selector into a knob with a spring. I used an M6 bolt and a 10x20mm spring for this purpose. I also added holes for rest pads. Here's a picture of my working model, which has been printed, tested, and fired successfully. However, I wouldn't recommend using ABS for this application again because it had adhesion failures inside the parts, causing them to snap easily. Even good old PLA does better, and PETG is what I prefer. I used 50% infill and made 100% infill modifiers around bolts, stock, and rail sections on my slicer. I also recommend using a lot of shells and top+bottom layers if you're going for 22LR caliber. I printed this model with a Prusa 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer. I used supports only for the front frame facing the silencer, while other parts were printed without them. The back frame has an overhang on its upper side, which doesn't need any support. Update: When you see the front receiver on your slicer, you'll notice that there's a hole for the suppressor that requires support. If you think you can manage to print it without supports, feel free to try and comment on the result! I used supports myself and printed a sturdy long part, so I won't be attempting it. I've added some information on how to find this design, along with Jokers' model in the name. I've also remixed the original designs and included them here. Please note that you'll need to assemble all parts yourself. Attention: This design has been tested with 22LR caliber, but as the rail and lock are both made of plastic, it's not secure for long-term use! Be aware that using steel BB CO2 or gas-driven plastic BBs is safer than airsoft or similar calibers. Only use this model with caution and understanding. Update: I've added a new front receiver file with two bolt holes for locking the gun. Use a piece of 20mm steel or washers for this purpose. I've also printed and tested it with 20mm aluminum pieces, and added a slot for the picatinny rail on the left side. Please note that the original cocking handle won't work with this design, so I've included a new file with clockwise ears. Happy printing!