JG AURORA Z-603S - BED WOBBLE

thingiverse

JG AURORA Z-603S - BED WOBBLE "This Thing is a Work-In-Progress", so up to now I'm only sharing some insights with you. Maybe you find other ways to solve the following issue ... Recently I was just about to clean my printer, when I realized - to my surprise - that the printer's case is not as rigid as I always thought. The back plate sags and combes. Both, the optical axis and the spindle are resting directly on this wall and as a result of this, the bed moves quite a lot, especially with fast prints. https://youtu.be/DAwVnEQaNNk I have seen this problem on some other printers as well (SIMAX' Woodpecker, JGAURORA/MAKER A6 etc). Other machines have solved this issue by applying a cross-structure, for example the CreatBot F160. So the idea is to stiffen the printer's back. The few holes the plate already has, do not allow to fix an effective structure at its back. So unless the printer is disassembled to work on it, it is necessary to look for a compromise. Remember those words a Chinese philosopher once said: Don't use a cannon to kill a fly ... Well I do! ... remember this is a test, and I'm posting these lines to suggest a possible solution, inviting you to find yours. At the moment I'm fixing 2 killer profiles (3030 / length: 50 cm) vertically to the backplate to avoid bed wobbling. The most 'inelastic' support points to fix our 3030s are the areas closed to the top / base of the printer's case, and the rib inside the electronics enclosure. There the box shows "T" and "L" sections. Fixing points: I also used the threads provided by the axis supports (in total 4). M6 screws are used there, so I couldn't use any other profile than the 3030s (the slots in the 2020's are too small to use M6s). Do I need to drill holes? Yes!!! - At least two 6 mm holes must be drilled into your printers backplate ... have this in mind. - Two holes per 3030, to tighten/loosen the screws (260 mm center to center / 5 mm holes in my case). The original M6 - 8 mm screws need to be replaced by longer 12 mm M6 "flat head" ones. Flat heads become a must to host the screws inside slots (see pictures) The 5 mm holes in the 3030 allow the use of an allen key through the extruded profile ( to tighten/loosen the 4 screws)... Actually I'm working on a grid that takes advantage of any hole/fixing point already existing at the back. This mod is not difficult, just awkward when it comes to cleaning and especially when trying to avoid chips flying around. You have to be very careful and skilled when drilling the backplate. I will add a few notes and upload the missing STL(s) once finished and tested.