Jato Brushless Conversion

thingiverse

Update June 2017 All files containing V2 are updated files, with original files left intact. Updates Added inserts for M3 nuts into motor mount and battery trays, eliminating direct screwing into 3D printed parts. Added a brace to cover the servo, preventing drilling holes in the chassis. Improved clearance for radio & antenna. Assembly instructions largely remain unchanged. Lower battery plate is mounted first, followed by gluing upper battery plate to lower one. Servo cover can then be aligned and glued in place without needing to drill holes in the chassis. End Update This is a brushless conversion kit for the Traxxas Jato. The battery box measures 43mm * 135mm. Two of these batteries are used in parallel: Turnigy nano tech 3300mah 3S 35-70C Lipo Pack from HobbyKing (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11949__Turnigy_nano_tech_3300mah_3S_35_70C_Lipo_Pack.html) The RX box is 32mm * 49mm. Significant post-processing and assembly are required before these parts can be mounted in the truck. Print Settings Printer: Ultibots Kossel Rafts: Doesn't matter Supports: Yes Resolution: .3 Infill: 100% Notes: The BatteryPlate_Top should not be printed with supports. Everything else requires them. Post-Printing Step 1 - Prepare the print There are a few areas that require sanding/filed to fit specific equipment. The motor mount - check clearance for your motor shaft, pinion, and slipper clutch backing plate. The receiver cover/hatch - Check the tab fitment into the battery tray. This is a little fragile, so be careful when sanding. The pin for the receiver cover - once the cover fits nicely, the pin will need to be drilled to fit your body clips. This is easiest when the battery plate is not attached to the car. The battery tray, on the outboard servo mount holes. The bottom of the chassis angles up here. You will need to sand this tab to match the angle on the chassis. Step 2 - Prepare the Jato Remove everything from the front bulkhead back. A single speed conversion is required. I recommend the steel gears from Hot Racing (http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnumber=SJT1000SS;c=180) You will also need to remove the edge guards. They will not fit with this battery tray without significant modification. Clean/remove the foam under the original RX battery box. You need to drill at least one hole into the chassis to support the front of the battery tray near the servos. There are two holes, but the outboard hole is at an angle, which makes drilling the hole difficult. I have not had any problem only using the one inboard screw. Step 3 - Glue the parts together Test fit the bottom plate onto the chassis using a couple of screws from the side guards. Check the top plate fitment & mark it's position. Remove the bottom plate and glue the pieces together. I used Aceton and clamped the pieces together. You need to drill holes through the top plate, using the holes in the bottom plate as guides. I used a 3/32 drill bit. Once the glue has dried, you will need to feed in your battery straps. The slot that is adjacent to the RX cover is difficult. I found it easiest to drill a small hole down from the top of the slot, through both plates. Then I used a pin/drill bit through that hole to work the strap around the corner. Step 4 - Assemble the truck Mount all electronics into the battery plate. The ESC uses double-sided tape, and there is a slot in the tray to fit a zip tie if needed. There are holes/channels for all of the servo wires to be hidden. Mount the motor to the motor mount, then install the motor mount in the truck. There are two bolts that go into the transmission, and one bolt that goes through the chassis plate. Mount the battery plate to the chassis. Do not over-tighten the bolts into the 3D printed parts. They will strip. Some of the screws can be re-used from removed parts. I bought a screw kit off eBay just to have extras. For the battery plate, you will need to use 3 of the screws for the side guards. They are 3*8 countersunk screws. You need to ensure whatever screws you use are not long enough to poke into the battery backs. The two holes near the steering servo and in the motor mount bottom also need 3mm countersunk screws. I used 10-12mm length screws.