iPad Support and Adjustable Stand

thingiverse

I'll need to get revised photos up of the new layout! I designed this from scratch for my Mom's iPad 2, and it's a five-piece model that presses together perfectly. The horizontal support member is printed in two halves that have to be glued together before being placed in the upper hole of the S curves. I revised the base and the H member so once constructed, you can flatten the entire contraption. Next, thread the long rod through the base holes and bottom holes of the support S curves. You can heat the ends of the rod for flattening the ends so it doesn't come apart or leave it loose for deconstruction and portability. I know it's big and not very efficient (5 hr print approx), but for Mom with clumsy fingers, it works great. I coated the bottom of the base with liquid rubber (Dipit) so it grips the surface of the table for safer and better iPad, iPhone support. Print Settings: Printer Brand: RepRap Rafts: No Resolution: .3 Infill: 20% Notes: Prints straight away. There might be a problem with the halves of the H support member not adhering to the bed. I would print with hot nozzle and coolish bed, say 212 for the Nozzle and 40 degrees for the Bed. I also laid out the H member halves so they don't have deal with extreme elevations, by laying them out like the rods, of which there are two. A short for placing the iPad support S curves inside the frame, and a longer rod for placing them on the outside of the frame, in which case, don't glue together the H member, as you won't be able to use as a lever to keep the angle of slant intact. Some experimenting will be necessary. Post-Printing: You need to press fit the H member and thread the rod.... Glue the two halves of the H member support together. The long rod gets threaded as shown through the bottom of the S curves and the frame front hole provided for it. There is a bit of looseness and play, but that's okay. The swivel and middle indent makes for a perfect stand. To finish, I got some liquid rubber (Dipit) at the hardware store and coated the bottom of the frame; so it would stick to, and not slip on a desk or tabletop surface. You can seal the ends of the rod so the support S curves don't come apart as indicated above, by heating the ends and flattening with a knife or some such. How I Designed This: I made a nice curve.... I started with the curve, imagined the frame. Did some boolean operations to make the indent in Rhino along with the rods which I had a lot of trouble printing. Maybe you have some suggestions? The whole thing fits together once I reprinted the rods and H member to be smaller.