Induction Annealer solenoid activated case dropper shelf

thingiverse

I designed this to use on my induction annealer in conjunction with my case feeder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902058 There is a video of it running here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ6f757Q61E The annealer is controlled by the MGNZ RevC Arduino Shield - annealer board: https://www.mgnz-makes.com/ The dropper can also be used stand-alone with other designs. It uses a standard 12v solenoid: https://www.jaycar.com.au/standard-12v-solenoid/p/SS0902 I have made a few different versions of this and this current one has no issues with the metal parts heating up. Anything close to the induction coil will get hot so there was a bit of work around distancing everything far enough away but it's all good now. As a guide: - I have machined the pivot pin from Delrin as I couldnt get it smooth enough printing it. The pivot pin needs to be plastic as it sits in the induction field and will heat up and bind/melt the plastic around it if it is metal. Give the pin clearance inside the lever so it can move freely- 6mm pin/6.3mm hole in lever. - Part #10 is not worth printing, use a piece of 4mm Bowden tube cut around 25mm long (you should have a bit of this around if you have a 3D printer). There is a M5 grub screw that pushes this against the pivot pin to hold it in place. - I machined my case pilots from Delrin. I have included them as STL's and they will probably work fine though a hot case may stick to them? - The tube clamp is designed to hold a length of 25mm aluminium tube to guide the cases when they drop. I cut a few slots in my tube and bent it so it drops the cases a little more gently. This is optional, the dropper will work fine without it. (Don't have the tube poke out the top of the clamp much or it will end up in the induction field and heat up). - The cable guide is optional, it uses 2 of the threads on the solenoid and points the wires down. I will probably make a small cable chain at some stage to tidy it up. Other parts you will require: 4 x M3 x 12 countersunk screws to attach the solenoid. 1 x M5 x 6 grub screw to clamp the Bowden tube against the pivot pin. 2 x M3 x 8 screws to attach the cable guide. 5 x M4 x 12 button heads to attach the tube clamp and clamp the tube. 2 x M3 x 16 screws and 1 M3 Nyloc nut to attach the link bar to the soledoid and lever. 1 x light extension spring to return the lever (I don't have specs, I just chopped down a spring I had lying around- use some common sense, it doesn't need to be anything special.