Indirect Hotend and part cooler.

thingiverse

<h1>Coffee's Cooler</h1> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/k2CZQv2AXjI" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KAyjbasD1pQ" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DJseAARrGx8" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Iz0ITJXxPc0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> This is my design for a compact, indirect cooling system. My design moves the fans off the carriage and to a custom X axis drive cover mount. It then uses flex tubing to transfer the air flow to a small ducting block for the heatsink and the filament/part cooler air nozzle. This project is finished. Update: 8/20/2021 I added a 3rd version of the cooling pipe. This has a more direct aim and works better with the gasket. NOTE. This may hit your heat block so be careful that it never comes in contact with it. I have been using this for many hours and it has not deformed even though it is only 2 mm away from the heat block with no sock on it. KEEP AN EYE ON IT! Update: 8/2/2021 I added a 2nd pipe version and reworked the heatsink air duct to provide better cooling of the hotend on the front lower parts. I reduced the ploy count on all models for faster slicing. No more fan vibrations at the hotend. You are able to remove hotend with out having to remove ducts or fan housings to get at it. The tubing is 1/2 ID x 9/16 OD silicone. I go it at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Quickun-Lightweight-Tubing-Plastic-Flexible/dp/B08XXNXCJ8 You will need some 3mm cap head screws. I bought a kit at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SW4S6C Also.. a 3mm tap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JSAFB92 You will need 19 of the tubing support clips and 4 of the clamps. I would print a few extra. Print the fan mount with the fan socket side down with supports. Print the front and back with the split (ducts showing) down. Print the latches holes up. The pins should be tight in the latches. If not glue them. Check videos for for how this thing is assembled. I used medium quality 5015 fans with ball bearings. If you can afford it, buy the best 24 volt 5015 fans you can find. The tubing and tubing supports should be put together before trying to attach it to the barbs on the hotend and fan end. Use 19 supports and cut the tubing a little long. 19MM or 3/4 inch. Once tubing is on and trimmed, snap on the barb clamps. I have been running this for 3 days and nothing has moved. Because the pipes screw on, it will be easier to make different versions. I included a .STEP model for this purpose. Please post any issues or design flaws so I can correct them. I'll do my best to answer any questions. May the flow be with you. #DISCLAIMER: I will not be held responsible for any damages either indirect or directly caused from/by using my design on your 3D printer. By 3D printing and/or using my design when available, you automatically agree to these conditions. # Warning! This can be be dangerous to use. ##If the hotend heatsink air flow stops or the tubing kinks, the hotend will overheat and although not likely, could lead to a fire! The tubing and fans must be firmly attached.