Improved Nerf Kronos Jam Door

thingiverse

# ***ACHTUNG! WORK IN PROGRESS!*** Remix of [TriangleFabrication's original design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3446664). The original was good, but had a few issues. This remix seeks to rectify those problems: 1. Improved interface with speed loaders. [Specifically designed around this variant](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3834390), there is now a more defined slot for the loader to insert into, preventing stray vibrations from knocking the speed loader away from the loading port due to aggressive fillet. 2. Added fillet around the top of the connector pin housing to allow the door to be opened fully. The original model has a sharp, flat housing which restricts the user's ability to open the door more than roughly 45 degrees. 3. Added a cutout on the front of the door that facilitates easier lifting. I wish I knew what it was called, but the original design offered nowhere to place your finger to lift up, making opening the door in the event of a jam difficult. This design follows Hasbro's example and returns this feature. Being a Work-in-Progress, I've provided a STEP file for anyone hoping to make changes, and I'll make improvements or derivatives as needed. **THIS DESIGN IS NOT FULLY TESTED!** # What filament? You shouldn't need any exotic filaments, but maybe don't print this out of standard PLA if you're gonna, y'know, *use it*. I'd use PETG, ABS/ASA, or Carbon Fiber, depending on what's available and your preference. My experience with these jam doors indicates that CF-PLA doors are just ever so slightly "crisper" than PETG versions, but [ProtoPasta CF-PLA is $60/kilo](https://smile.amazon.com/Proto-pasta-CFP11705-Original-Carbon-Fiber/dp/B01BDL4BNG/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=protopasta+pla&qid=1617857754&sr=8-4), and that hurts me on an emotional level. I'll see if I can have one printed in [Zyltech's CF-PLA](https://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-pla-3d-printer-filament-1-75-mm-1-kg-2-2-lbs-carbon-fiber/)... # Rafts? Imagine using rafts, couldn't be me. # Supports? Support on the finger cutout lift thingies is a wise idea. Tolerance on the connector pin hole and the lock mechanism are pretty lax, so support's likely not needed unless your printer has extreme bridging ineptitude. Supports for the connector pin housing don't do much in my experience. # Infill? Most of the print will wind up solid with normal slicing profiles, so anything above 15% should be fine. In PrusaSlic3r with a [Prusa Mini/Mini+](https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/) with "Generic PLA" and 0.1mm "Detail" layer height, the difference between 20% Gyroid and 100% Rectilinear was 12 minutes and 1.84g of filament.