IKEA RepRap LINNMON/ADILS

thingiverse

Here's a rewritten version of the text: I've finally resolved the major issue with this printer by removing any printed parts from the idlers. To do this, I used Fender washers on top and bottom of 2 bearings on a M3 x 40mm screw drilled into the upper tabletop, which effectively braced it at two points instead of one. As a result, the idlers now stay perpendicular, eliminating any anomalies in the layers, and every line comes out smooth without any wobble. I've taken this project as far as I'm willing to go, and I'm quite satisfied with the results. Aluminum tubing combined with PLA makes sense for larger builds based on this project. It's not for everyone, but it is a viable alternative in my opinion. There are a few reasons why you shouldn't build this thing: The 75 x 60cm LINNMON tabletops from IKEA are no longer available, and the next size up, 100 x 60cm, would make this printer even bigger. I don't think I posted all the right parts on Thingiverse to successfully make this thing, and to be honest, I have thousands of designs and can't remember which ones I printed or which ones even worked. This printer has little to no maintenance, but when you do need to access the XY steppers, it becomes a real hassle and requires a considerable amount of patience. I really don't want anyone wasting their time on this thing. It was a proof of concept that has become my main 3D printer, and I've disassembled my old printer and designed a new frameless, smaller, more conventional 3D printer which I'll post to Thingiverse in the next week or so. This one is designed to be more straightforward, has both Bowden and direct drive, and uses 8mm shafting + LM8LUU. It uses the same movement for XY but will be much more simplified and accessibility won't be an issue anymore. I've moved the temporary Z-axis to side-to-side instead of front-to-back, which has helped with some issues, but I still need to address the front bearing noise and fix the retract and fast move artifacts. I've swapped out the 1.7A 0.9degree/step motor for the extruder with a 1.2A 1.8degree/step motor, which seems to be working better. This printer is made from two IKEA LINNMON tabletops connected by four ADILS legs. I've inverted the height adjustment feet to achieve this, but this is all still very WIP. The Z-axis and many other parts are temporary, so don't attempt to build this thing yet until I publish a BOM. I have a few ideas for this printer, including floating on just one tabletop without any legs or cutting a whole in the top and attempting direct drive instead of Bowden. Since it's quite big, the possibilities are endless. For now, I need to modify the platemounts to include a M3 nut that the idler pin can screw into so it's braced at two points instead of just one. I also have a stepper plate with endstop holes at either end for cleaner endstop mounting and a belt snap-in mechanism I'd like to try out soon. The Z-axis needs to be redone using the ADILS legs as smooth rods, if possible, and cable management, control box, and lighting will be worked on next.