Ikea Lillangen Speaker Stands

thingiverse

Here are a few parts that convert an Ikea Lillangen "foot base" assembly into a speaker stand. These bases sell for between $10 and $20 each = much cheaper than anything marketed as a speaker stand. The idea here is to raise the speaker off the ground and angle it upward so that the tweeters are aimed directly at the listeners' noggins. The tall, dreidel-shaped feet are designed to visually blend in with the square legs, while being rounded on the bottom to accommodate resting on the floor at an angle. This shape also makes them easy to adjust by hand. If you wish to screw the bases directly to your speaker cabinets, you'll need a pair of M8-1.25 bolts about 50% longer than the original feet, four M8-1.25 plain nuts (for use as lock nuts), and a printed pair of the tall feet. Use a vise to press the head of a long bolt into the hex recess in each foot until it bottoms out, then thread a lock nut onto each foot, screw 'em into the legs, and tighten the lock nuts at the desired height. I printed my feet with 20% hex infill, three horizontal shells, and six top/bottom shells. If you'd rather protect the bottoms of your cabinets, print the caps as well. The rear caps have a slot where you should insert a penny (or similar 1.5mm thick, 19mm diameter) coin. This will form a back-stop that prevents the cabinet from sliding rearward off of the stand. Notice that the protrusion which inserts into the open top of the leg only sticks out 1.75mm... This is to clear a reinforcement plate welded inside each rear leg. If you'd prefer to trim manually to clear this plate, you can increase the vertical scale to give a thicker pad or re-design with a taller protrusion. For a PAIR of stands, you'll need: (2) Ikea Lillangen foot bases close to the width/depth of your speakers; (4) M8-1.25 hex head machine screws 40-50mm long; (8) M8-1.25 plain hex nuts; and (4) 1 cent coins (19mm diameter x 1.5mm thick). Print caps solid, and print feet with ~20% infill to save material. Make sure to use at least 1.5mm on the top/bottom to ensure wear life and strength. I used Taulman Nylon 618 filament on an unheated Garolite bed with a space heater blowing on it. The build platform was at around 35degC, and I had to use an 8mm brim to aid adhesion. After using these for a couple days, they aren't that sturdy without being screwed to something. If you want a battle-hardened stand, this is not the one.