IKEA IVAR Prusa mini tight enclosure

prusaprinters

Just want to share my enclosure build. My room is small and every space is precious. Thats why I needed a compact enclosure for my prusa mini. The enclosure is build in an IKEA Ivar shelf (the smallest size).A big wooden plate screwed to the shelf and the wall via metal brackets serves as stable base. The walls are polycarbonat sheets bought in a local hardware store for only a few bucks. Beneath the printer is a polybox filament enclosure, an sunlu filydryer. All filaments are feeded throught reverse bowden tubing to the extruder. (recently upgraded to bondtech IFS extruder, much better than a dangling fila sensor)Directly under the wooden base I have 3 small drawers for printer accessories sorted in groups: "cleaning" "printing" "maintenance"I have an LED flood light on top. It was just a test for the light and not meant for the printer, but it is so nice, it will stay there. I still search for an solution to integrate the light, other than laying it on top, but yeah it works ;-) Hardware parts:2x piano hinge 430mm42x M3  countersunk screws 7-10mm long12x M3 nuts8x lens head wood screws and washers10x smaller (~10mm) countersunk wood screwspolycarbonate panels (2x 43x46cm 2x 43x18,5cm 1x 39x15,5cm) (your needed size will vary. you have to measure for your self to make best fit)brush seal strip 1cm width ~ 40cm lengthPTFE tubingdoor magnet thingy (see picture)IVAR shelf ~40cm width (including all needed parts for that shelf)1x IVAR shelf board designated to 3D Printer enclosure (for a stable shelf you need 3 boards)hard wood (e.g. beech) kitchen worktop or any other heavy wooden board ~46x39cm5x 90° brackets ~10x10cm(perhaps I miscount a screw/nut/… so be prepared to have some more on stock) Print instructions:print all stl files linked here one timedownload this: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/136813-ridgid-bracket and print it 2 timesuse PETg3 perimetersoptionally you can add my other parts for the enclosure/printer:the x-stepper cable will be squished by the right wall, so a cable guide is highly recommended. I created this https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/93074-prusa-mini-x-stepper-cable-guide and it works very well for me. To be always informed of humidity and temp in the enclosure I use this mount for standard round cheapo hygrometers: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/93070-prusa-mini-extrusion-hygrometer-mountFor storing  frequently used tools/stuff (e.g. tweezers) directly at the Printer I designed drawers for mounting it under the base plate: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/120721-honeycomb-utility-drawer - I use 3 of them.For ptfe tube management I use this:https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/120055-screwable-ptfe-tube-clip  Assemblysetup your IKEA shelf with one board at the bottom, one at the top and the stabelizer cross.cut wooden base plate in shape and put some surface finish (e.g. oil) on it.attach brackets on all 4 corners to hold the base plate (height from floor to underside of the board ~ 44cm).attach with a bracket the base plate to the wall. (not mendatory, but I recommend that because it brings lots of stability)Put ivar shelf board in the height you want to have your enclosure. My enclosure is arround 44cm in height. Place the printer on the base plate to see if it fits.do your measurements for the side panels.cut the side panels. I cut it with a Japanese style saw.put side panels in and mark drilling holes to screw them to the vertical bars of the shelf. I used 2 screws per bar (make 8 in total)drill the holes and screw panels in.now the piano hinges. cut them to length. mark top and bottom last holes on the side pannelsdrill the holes and then screw the hinge in placenow drill all other holes while hinge is attachedput all screws in to completely secure the hingeswith printer in place mark the cutout on right side panel for the filament tubetake of the right side panel for doing the cutoutcut out a hole for the “filament_opening” printed part. I used a router for that, but a jigsaw will do it tooput brush seal strip into the filament openingdepending who you want to feed all your cables inside the enclosure you can make a small cutout in the bottom rear corner. Feeding it through the base plate is also a good thingreattach the side panelnow attach the bottom brackets for left and right panel. Screw it to the base with wood screws and drill a hole through the panels and attach it with screw and nutnow attach “top_right_bracket” and “top_left_bracket”, the holes in the back should  be screwed in the top shelf board, the others must be screwed to the side panel and secured with screw+nutattach “top_support” in the middle of the top shelf board, be patient in which direction you attach itcut the top panel and attach it like you did before with the other panels (drill+screw+nut)cut the doorsattach the doors to the hinges. I use some clamps to make it easier to attach themattach the door magnet thingy in middle front of the base plate with wood screws.I used a cut in half small straight metal bracket, see pictures. But perhaps you find an easier solution (simple screw+washer perhaps?)cover inside of handle pieces with double sided tape and put it onto the doors (see picture)I also attached a smoke detector inside the enclosure .. just for some extra safety (and I had one laying around…)If you need a detailed photo or have a question, feel free to ask via comments. additional notesI'm interested in your feedback to improve my stuff! So give me likes, post makes, comment and rate the print to show others and me how well it goes.If you post a make, let me know which filament you use.If you want to support me by donating a coffee go to https://ko-fi.com/antimaterie I would really happy about it. The money will be invested in all stuff regarding 3d printing to give more and better quality models.In general my Prints are not for commercial use, but if you are a print farm owner and want to sell some of my stuff, please contact me.Hope you enjoy my models.