IBOT Vr2.0 - The Simple Robot Model Kit

thingiverse

IBOT is the ultimate successor to the original design, built upon the proportions and style of Vr1 with every aspect of the 3D model expanded upon. So what's new? Articulated ball joints for arms and legs enable smooth movement. Pivot joints for elbows and knees provide added stability. Improved details give IBOT a more realistic appearance. Functional hands allow accessories to be easily attached. Efficient modeling techniques make printing easier, with all pieces designed to have a flat face for easy printing and small parts that can fit on the smallest print beds. I've poured my heart into this design, and I hope it shows through. It's a fantastic weekend project waiting to happen, and I'd love to see how you make it your own. Be sure to tag me on Instagram if you create your own IBOT @lew_j, so I can see what colors, materials, and finishes you've used! Print Settings Printer: M3D Micro Rafts: Yes Supports: Yes Resolution: 200 Microns Infill: Non Notes: Total Print Time for IBOT Alone - 15hr Total Print Time for all pieces - 20hr I personally used the following settings on all pieces. Supports? Only on Hands, Body, Pelvis Rafts? Recommended Infill? All pieces are hollow with the thick walls setting enabled Resolution? I printed at 0.2mm layer thickness (200 microns) Some light sanding may be required depending on the resolution you use. The ball joints fit tightly, but trust me, they do fit. IBOT stands approximately 14cm tall when complete. Post-Printing Instructions Print all pieces and remove excess support material / imperfections. Slot two ball pegs into the body. Insert Pelvis into flat end of the body (and Glue if required). Slot two ball pegs into the Pelvis. Attach Biceps & Femurs to the relevant Ball Joints. Attach Feet & Forearms to the relevant Pivot Joints. Plug the Hands into the Forearms. Slot in the Head. Enjoy! How I Designed This IBOT was designed and exported in Lightwave 3D. I used basic geometry to create each piece and added the necessary sockets/joints for articulation, mainly through trial and error. I discovered that a 0.1mm gap between a ball and its socket is necessary for a decent friction fit, which also applies to pivot joints and the Head, which rely on friction to move/stay in place. I used Rigidink PLA Filament, which I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone.