Hypercube Horizontal Conversion

thingiverse

###Hypercube Horizontal Conversion What is it? --------------------- This is a complete conversion from the default Hypercube layout, which rotates the rods to be horizontal and aligns everything at their center. * Balanced symmetrical horizontal carriage means reduced vibrations with high jerk and acceleration. * Smooth-shaped ducts provide high airflow through the ducts. * Easy-to-adjust belts. * Separate printed spiral bushings with integrated BLTouch mount. * Centered belts on the carriage between X rods ensure less binding. * Perfectly aligned XY joiner ensures the belts run parallel. * 300x300mm build space is retained on HC300 by moving the bed back. Current limitations: --------------------- For now, it is for sensorless homing only. If interest is high enough, I will be able to add a limit switch on the parts as well as an inductive probe if I get the offsets from somewhere. This design has the nozzle raised higher than a default Hypercube, which can cause the Z axis to "bottom" out on a HC300 due to the bracket holding the Z rods. Since this design is made to use with a bed leveling tool like a BLTouch in mind, you should be able to remedy this by adding bushings instead of springs under your bed. The bushing for maximum travel from your Z axis are included and replace your bed springs (this is with a 3mm aluminum bed and 2mm glass build surface). Alternatively, you can print my [reworked Z axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3244423) and have stronger parts with full travel. Other info: --------------------- The BLTouch probe is offset 40mm behind the nozzle and 0mm in the X direction; don't forget to add these to your firmware. Also, don't forget to change your max Y size to about 275mm if you haven't moved your bed back yet. Because belt spacing in the original design is 8.5mm, you will need to cut one of the 10mm X rods to precisely the right length otherwise the belts will rub against the end. On my HC300, this is 400mm; the second rod has to be 400mm also but can be a little longer as there is a lot more clearance. I have also uploaded reinforced motor mounts and idler mounts for 16 and 20T idlers; you can [get those here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3202077). ### Changelogs: * 29-nov-2018: Created and uploaded a reworked Z axis to regain full Z travel. [Download here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3244423). * 14-nov-2018: Tested FANG_V1 and found out it didn't cool uniformly on both sides; I've adjusted and uploaded a V2 version, which is much improved compared to V1 and recommended over both other designs. Check out the differences [here](https://imgur.com/a/itGBuEF), printed with the same gcode. * 13-nov-2018: Added two alternative part cooling ducts; I have tested the ALT version but not the FANG version. ### Parts needed: XY joiner: --------------------- * 2 16T toothed idlers * 2 16T smooth idlers * 2 LM8LUU bearings * 12 20mm M3 screws for both XY joiners * 4 35mm M3 screws for holding idlers in joiners * 4 M3 nuts for rod clamps * 12 M3 nyloc nuts for the rest Carriage --------------------- * 2 5015 blower fans * E3D V6 compatible hotend * BLTouch with mounting screws * 4 25mm M4 screws and nuts for holding fans * 4 15mm M3 screws and nyloc nuts for mounting the sleeve bearings * 6 10mm M3 screws and 2 nuts/4 nyloc nuts for holding the belt clamps * 4 10mm M3 screws and nuts for holding both fan ducts * 2 10mm M3 screws and nuts for upper hotend clamp * 2 20mm M3 screws and nyloc nuts to clamp the two halves You can use a 35mm M3 screw and washer to pull the two center nyloc nuts in the two halves before you assemble them.