Huge 3D Printer You Can Make

grabcad

This is the NS-600. I built it during COVID lockdown. Its print volume is over 600mm x 300mm x 450mm. I put a lot of effort in to this model to capture all the detail accurately so you can make it too. Follow this link to see it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8HUuwkqKC4&t=529sMost parts can be found on Amazon, eBay, or AliExpress. A few optional components can be fabricated. Fusion 360 can generate CAM paths for those parts. - X carriage and drag chain brackets are machined from 1/8" (3mm) angle aluminum stock.- Y strain relief / drag chain brackets are machined from maple, but could be 3D printed. I recommend wood though. Using thermoplastics near a heat source isn't a great idea, and I find using 3D printed parts on a 3D printer to be distasteful.- Y carriage plate is machined from 1/4" (6mm) aluminum stock.- Z belt tension bracket is machined from 3mm aluminum stock. (The Z belt assembly is optional, but recommended. It keeps the gantry from sagging unevenly.)I included both linear rail motion and V-wheel motion. Hide the parts you don't want to use. If you intend to use linear rails for Y motion, you'll need to fabricate the Y carriage plate, as it has the mounting holes for the MGN12H blocks. If you prefer rollers, you can use two stock CR-10 bed carriage plates. For linear rail X motion, you'll need to fabricate the bracket. Wheel brackets are on Amazon, eBay, or AliExpress.There are two power supplies -- 12V for the control board and hot-end, and a modified 24V for the two 12V bed heaters.The heated beds are wired in series for safety. If one fails they both stop. I only use one thermistor. The 24V PSU is modified to deliver 18V. This prevents too much current going to the 12V heated beds. Replace the Mean Well LRS-350-24's stock trim potentiometer with a 10kΩ, and dial it back until the unit delivers 18V.The print surface is a custom mirror. I modeled an extra large one to maximize print area, but you could use a 620mm x 310mm for a perfect fit on the heated beds.I use stainless steel Torx screws for everything because Torx is the superior fastener drive. When building something of this nature, you need to fasten and re-fasten often. Torx will not wear out while hex and Philips degrade quickly. Torx can take high torque and will last through many fasten-unfasten cycles. The shaft will shear before the head will cam out.You'll have to roll your own firmware. Mine is based on a Marlin CR-10S replacement.