Hotshot Mount

prusaprinters

<p>These cost $10-15 shipped, so I thought I'd post this here.</p> <p>There are two versions, one that has a right angle mount for mounting to a seat post or seat stay, using those generic clamps that can be found cheaply &amp; probably freely at your local bike shop or co-op.</p> <p>The right angle version has ridges to better mate with the clamp. This will hopefully prevent rotation, though I haven't tested how good of a mate it is with generic clamps.</p> <p>Second version is more for rear racks, using some piece of flexible steel that bolts to the end.</p> <h3>How I Designed This</h3> <p>https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Seatpost-Mount-For-Hotshot/dp/B009VUAB6I Based on measurements from one of these.</p> <p>36 ridges (I counted) on the original, with a 0.75 mm depth &amp; 1 mm width, applied to the right angle version.</p> <p>I remixed another one before from another user (MTX rack mount), but the print came out needing a lot of filing, &amp; the protrusion that prevents the light from ejecting was too small; I could rip it out easily by hand &amp; it fell out on my way home. I upped it by 1 mm or so, which could be excessive. File away excess until the fit is good.</p> <p>The horizontal &amp; vertical slot distances were too small previously, so I increased these as well.</p> <p>Surprisingly, the MTX rack mount dimensions from the STL were significantly lower than those from the real-life mount, which explains why it was so hard to fit.</p> <h3>Assembly &amp; Materials</h3> <p>Simple to mount.</p> <p>Rack version: You'll need a hex-headed 4 mm bolt (pretty sure) &amp; locknut. The inset captures the bolt head &amp; prevents it from turning, so you only need an 8 mm wrench.</p> <p>Right angle version requires a 3 mm bolt (I think).</p> <p>Filing probably required for a good fit.</p> <p>Be careful with your print orientation. The end is very easy to break when you bend it to release the light.</p> <h3>Updates</h3> <p>1 Feb 17: Yeah, don't print this standing up to avoid supports along the inside edges of the top "rails". The flexing necessary to release the light will break the mount in two.</p> <p>24 Feb 17: Print it with the largest surface area parallel to the print bed. Use a knife to cut off any extra layers off of the protrusion. If not, it may be very difficult to bend the leg far enough to release the light &amp; not break the mount. That was the only modification I needed. The slots were perfect with the first print.</p> Category: Replacement Parts