Hotend kit - Weedo Tina2

cults3d

Very important you nead the endstop part for z axis before putting this on instead of the original big metal cover. Also make sure everything is tight to the x carriage! If not after you feel its tight try shorter screws. recomended is 35 to 38 mm long m3 screws and then iam counting thread length and not the head. You can shorten a longer screw by threading a m3 nut up to the head as well. Listed here in order of latest design iterations. Thanks for the support when buying. Tank version! Use 4 of the longer m3 screws mentioned below. Its a more sturdy version made to have a modern look. Designed around the original fan. This version can easially be printed in 0.4 layer height. Version 3! Gives better airflow and lighter and also allows you to remove terrible original cable holder on hotend. Lets the cable move more freely without strain that could cause cable breaks. Version 2! I wanted to remove the ugly original cover and created this one. easy acces and use 2 m3 screws 40mm long to replace the shorter original screws. So when you want acces simply remove two screws without hotend getting loose. On a side note so did i remove my cura profile but if you want it let me know and i upload a newer one. old on where bad and had va fixed end height and not good for taller prints. Bonus item x carriage. Only do this if you are experienced. Brand new x carriage where i recomend 4 new normal lmuu6 bearings. Original long bearings is of very low quality but should work as well but i got 4 new quality ones. uses 5 7-10 mm long m3 screws. Iam preparing to put a custom hotend in the future so this is the start for it. Make sure the body and base is a tight fit when assembled so air for print cooling dont leak on the sides. Bonus item x rod clamp. If you wiggle the hotend you will see the rods move pretty much. putting these clamps one makes it alot less. Improves print quality. They must be at the far ends on each side and very easy to remove.