Hot Shoe Speedlight Mount (remixed mic mount)

thingiverse

Updated schematic, very simple! So I've always been eager to 3D print something for my Nikon ever since I got it. With a 3D printer and a passion for photography, I knew I had to do something amazing! I have a compact little micro printer, though, so printing big items was out of the question.... When I saw the challenge and the source material, I was inspired to design. I don't own a mic but I also don't use a speed light, so I decided my build platform is just large enough and my self-taught electronic skills are just sufficient to do this. My 3D design work is always a work in progress though.. So I used the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:346513 for inspiration. I couldn't modify it but I measured it and used the measurements to sketch one up. I changed the base to include the holes for the hotshoe which are 1.5mm in diameter. I got the measurements for the distance between the holes from my own Nikon. I added a hole next to the hole used to lock attachments onto the hotshoe, to connect a pin to ground. I used my measurements from the hotshoe mic mount. I added some thickness to the bottom of the hotshoe mount to not only support the light but also house the perf board which I connected my spring pins (http://www.ebay.com/sch/sch_i.html?_nkw=100Pcs+0.99mm+Diameter+Spherical+Tip+Spring+Testing+Probe+Pins&_id=231026502173&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658) to for my electrical connections. I gave the top part enough internal space to house a 9v battery and the electronics along with the trim-potentiometers to change the resistance of the amount of power going to the RGB LEDs for color mixing. I would have done an Arduino version but the quickness needed for a flash is too fast for an Arduino, Unless it was just for complete a separate led circuit, which I didn't think of until writing this. I may have more iterations to come.... The hotshoe on Nikon can ground a couple hundred volts I read, so for LEDs, which don't require anything near that, my circuit is fine. I googled a lot of stuff about it and created a schematic. Important!!! Before putting all the pieces together, after soldering pins, check connection on breadboard. The pins could possibly not be touching camera connector pins and it won't work. For the LEDs I pre-soldered perf board prior to printing. Used a 2.5mm hex bolt and nut for mounting top to base. I lightly sanded the back piece to have a smoother fit to slide in. Pressed LED board into place, hot glued sides to hold LEDs. I placed in the rest of the circuit with the battery and slid back piece into place. Turned on power to lights and took a pic. The schematic shows a switch. In place of the switch is the cameras hotshoe. Positive to center pin and GND pin to BC547 base. Parts: 1x BC547 1x 1500uF 16v Electrolytic capacitor 1x 1n4002 Rectifier diode LEDs and resistors for LEDs How I Designed This I remixed the adjustable hotshoe microphone holder. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:346513 After adding this to 123D design app I took measurements and created a side by side comparison. I then changed the top to allow electronic internals to be constructed and laid within. I made enough room for a 9v battery to be able to fit inside and set the holes for the hotshoe at the appropriate distance. Troubleshoot LEDs won't light. If there is no transfer of power between LEDs they won't light up. The problem I ran into was the pins from the base to the camera. I hadn't put them down far enough to touch the camera connections on the hotshoe. Upgrading Im going to work on upgrading the circuit. The LEDs are not high power LEDs. I have a few 1W and 3W LEDs that ill work on a circuit for. Ill also work on changing the shape; make it cooler looking than just a box. Ill work toward making this a ring light as well for macro photography.