Honeycomb Stratocaster Body (repositioned pieces)

prusaprinters

<p>This is a light remix of the Honeycomb Stratocaster Body by Conceptor. (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3174465">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3174465</a>)</p> <p>I resliced the body into 9 pieces rather than the original 6 so that there is only 1 seam under the strings where the tension is the highest, there is no longer a seam where the screws for the bridge meet, and the pieces will now fit on a smaller print bed.</p> <p>I also added pegs / holes in the joints to give the body some additional mechanical strength in addition to the glue.</p> <p>The naming convention for the files is this:</p> <p>Each main body piece has a number, 1 through 9, as well as a brief description of what each piece is.</p> <p>Each peg has a pair of numbers to indicate which pieces it connects, as well as a description if there are multiple pegs connecting the same pieces.</p> <p>Edit: 16 July 2021</p> <p>I have seen comments that 'mid-upper.stl' is corrupted. It looks fine on my end, but if you see the same, try 'mid-upper-reuploaded.stl'</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Creality</p> <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong> <div><p>Ender 5</p></div> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong> <div><p>Yes</p></div> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>.2</p> <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong> <div><p>20%, 40% for pieces 8 and 9, </p></div> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>I used gyroid infill, and at least 10 wall/top/bottom layers for extra strength.</p> <p>20% infill for most of the body, but I used 40% for pieces 8 and 9, since that is where the string tension falls.</p> <p>Print orientation for the pegs can be either on their sides or standing up, depending on what gives you better adhesion, since some of them are quite small.</p> <p>I also recommend printing the pegs at 90-95 percent scale, otherwise you will need to do quite a bit of sanding to get them to fit into the holes.</p> <h3>Post-Printing</h3> <p><strong>Step 1: Sanding</strong></p> <p>Sand the mating surfaces and pegs to ensure a good glue bond</p> <p><strong>Step 2: Glue</strong></p> <p>Glue the pieces of the body together.</p> <p>I used the following sequence when glueing.</p> <ul> <li>1-2-3 (group 1)</li> <li>8-9 (group 2)</li> <li>5-6 (group 3)</li> <li>4-7 (group 4)</li> </ul> <p>Let them dry</p> <p>Then glue the groups together</p> <ul> <li>group 1, groupe 2 and groupe 3</li> </ul> <p>Let them dry</p> <ul> <li>glue group 4 onto the bottom</li> </ul> <p><strong>Final Guitar assembly</strong></p> <p>After sourcing your guitar parts, lay them all out in the guitar and mark/drill any holes you will need for the pick guard and output jack.</p> <p>Note: Squier parts are sized differently than Fender parts, so if your source guitar is a Squier, you may need to do additional sanding / post-processing to the neck or neck pocket and pickup / control cavities to get everything to fit properly.</p> </p></p></p> Category: Music