Hiprecy LEO - Y Axis Linear Rail Conversion

thingiverse

I made these designs to convert the LEO Y axis to a linear rail system, which will result in 10mm of lost build height. <b>Parts needed:</b> -Linear Rail & Block, 300mm, MGN12C (2 sets) -Linear Block, MGN12C (1) -M3 x 8 Screws (14) -M3 x 24 Screws (2) -M4 x 12 Screws (8) -M3 T-Nuts (14) -Print of 'Y Linear Rail Bracket L' (1) -Print of 'Y Linear Rail Bracket R' (1) -Print of 'Y Linear Rail Belt Spacer' (1) -Print of 'Y Linear Rail End Cap' (4, 1 of each) -Print of 'Linear Rail Alignment Tool' (3) This conversion is a bit more complex than the Z and X conversions. I'm including some instructions and photos to help with this one. <b>Assembly:</b> -Remove the 6 screws holding the heated build plate to the Y carriage. Don't lose the spacers that are going to fall out. Move the build plate out of the way. -Remove the 2 screws holding the Y belt block to the Y carriage. -Remove the rollers from the Y carriage. There is no room for an Allen wrench under the screws. I used needle nose pliers under the rollers to hold the screw heads until the nylon in the nuts is clear of the screw threads. They will easily spin off after that. -Remove the Y carriage. -Remove the sheet metal plate from the back of the Y axis extrusions. -Remove the blocks from the linear rails. Be careful not to lose any ball bearings out of the blocks. They should stay in place as long as you are gentle with them. -Attach the rails and front rail caps to the extrusions. I used 4 screws in each rail, evenly spaced. When installing the rail, I use 3 alignment tools, 1 on each end and one in the middle. The tool has a hole in the middle to allow an Allen driver into the screw located under the tool. The rails and caps should be positioned all the way forward touching the front sheet metal plate. -Insert the rail blocks into the printed brackets as shown. Slide the brackets/blocks onto the rails from the rear with the larger line up sleeves to the outside. -Attach the rear rail caps so they are both positioned forward against the ends of the rails. The left cap acts as the new Y end-stop and can be adjusted later. -Position the Y carriage on the brackets making sure the line up sleeves are fully seated in the carriage holes. Move the carriage all the way forward and back a few times and make sure it moves smoothly. If there is binding or roughness, your Y axis extrusions were probably not lined up properly from the factory. This will need to be corrected before moving forward. -Once you have smooth movement, secure the brackets to the carriage using 8 M4 screws. Once again check the carriage for smooth movement. Also check for vertical slop. <b>If you have binding or roughness after tightening the brackets to the carriage:</b> Your brackets printed too thin. You have 3 options: fix the reason your printer is not printing proper dimensions, use your slicer to scale up the Z dimension of the brackets, or back out all 8 M4 screws until the problem goes away. <b>If you have vertical slop after tightening the brackets to the carriage:</b> Your brackets printed too thick. You have 2 options: fix the reason your printer is not printing proper dimensions or use your slicer to scale down the Z dimension of the brackets. <b>Update 7-14-20:</b> I have redesigned the rear rail caps, which work a little better than the originals. I also added a second version of the left rail bracket to accommodate 2 blocks on that side instead of 1 for a total of 4 blocks altogether.