Hinged Mini Pelican Case 2.0

thingiverse

This is a remix of schlem's Mini Pelican Case. Although intended as a mini prop, this proved practical as a tiny pill box for temporary use, which looks cool as an added bonus. The original model proved to be rather 'dirty' and nearly impossible to edit due to its many gaps and awkwardly connected facets. I rebuilt most of it to get rid of these issues, enabling me to design an even smaller-than-mini version that is more efficient. The original model has an inside volume of 34x26x12 mm and can hold five SD cards. The mini model has a volume of 34x22x11.25 mm but is too small for an SD card. Another improvement is that this version has sensible tolerances for FDM printers, and an improved hinge that is less likely to detach when in use. Update 2017/02/18: I added a 'v3' version which has a much improved hinge design that is easier to print and much less prone to breaking. This hinge will also easily turn across a range of 115°. The v3 files also come in a variation with built-in supports. The v3 version is definitely the one you'll want to print, but I left the v2 models available for those who prefer them. The v3 version still requires a well-calibrated printer if you want to end up with a usable result due to its complexity. Printer Settings Printer Brand: FlashForge Printer: Creator Pro Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.1 mm Infill: 20% Notes: A layer height of at most 0.1 mm is pretty much obligatory to ensure the details come out right. Supports are essential for the original model with handle, but may not be necessary for the mini model. The v3 files are offered in a variation that has minimal built-in supports. Post-Printing The v3 version should be usable right away if printed correctly. Before you push the base and lid together to snap the hinge in place, check if there aren't any obvious blobs or oozing that could be in the way, and scrape it off with a knife if necessary. If the lid won't close entirely, you may have to ream the holes a bit until the little nubs fit in them properly. On a well-calibrated printer, the hinge should move smoothly or have a bit of friction, but it should not be sloppy and it shouldn't require inordinate force to push it together. Old Notes It is essential to ensure that the rod of the hinge is round, otherwise the hinges will most certainly crack when assembled. In my prints, the rod always ends up a bit squashed due to insufficient cooling time. Sand or scrape it with a blade to adjust its shape. Also check for 'elephant's foot syndrome' (squashing of the first layer) on the little nubs and the hinge clamps, and smoothen them to reduce the risk that those parts will break when clipping together the base and lid. It may be easiest to attach the lid in the 90° open position. In the likely case that you need to print a new lid, it is recommended to print it together with something else to avoid that the little details end up as blobs due to insufficient time for cooling.