Hictop Heated Bed to Prusa Y-Carriage Adapters (210mm hole spacing)

thingiverse

Are you building a Prusa i3 style clone and need a cheap heated bed? Check out the Hictop 220mm x 275mm aluminum clad PCB, 12V / 24V. The price is very competitive, I paid $25, and it's decent quality. I'm running mine at 24V (Einsy-Rambo, Marlin BugFix 1.1.x) and it heats up pretty fast. However, if you have a Prusa style Y-Carriage then you've got a 5mm hole spacing issue left to right - the Hictop HeatedBed is 210mm but your carriage needs 215mm. The good news is that the front to back spacing on the Prusa Y-Carriage is already 210mm, so there are no issues with that. To compensate for the missing 2.5mm per side, you'll need to center the HeatedBed on the carriage and make up for it by using adapters. While we're at it, let's make these adapters adjustable. Note: In the pictures I'm using an MK3 style Y-Carriage with 9 mounting holes. The Hictop HB only has 4 holes, so I'm only using the corner holes on the Y-Carriage. If you have an MK2 style Y-Carriage, it will have 4 corner holes and should be the same exact dimensions based on online research. To print these adapters, use ABS, and since I just made them recently, I can't speak to any long-term issues with the bed heating them up repeatedly. Print 2x Left and 2x Right adapters. Any feedback is always welcome! Update: I've uploaded a newer version of the wheel model, which includes an expanded hex opening for the M3 bolt head. Note: My go-to source for hard-to-find fasteners, especially M3 hardware, in the US, is Fastenal. They have everything, including thin M3 square nuts. Here's what you'll need: 1) 4x M3 x 25mm bolts with a hex head (not cap screws), since your Y-carriage is tapped 3mm .5. 2) 4x M3 x 10mm bevel head screws to mount the bed to the Adapter. 3) 4x thin M3 Square Nuts, type 1.8, to mount the bed to the Adapter. 4) 4x ~4mm x 20mm Springs (between Adapter and Carriage). 5) 8x M3 Washers (one on each end of springs).