HEVO / HPCE / PrecisionPIezo universal piezo Z probe adapter

thingiverse

I redesigned this concept for attaching a piezo to the PrecisionPiezo Z probe and adapted it to create a versatile adapter for the HyperCube Evo printer. In theory, this would enable any existing extruder mount that attaches to the standard X carriage (you know - the one with the pins and central screw) to be piezo-enabled. Use 27mm (preferable) or 20mm piezos. EDIT: September 8, 2018 - I updated v1.2 of the base by moving the piezo upwards so it makes better contact with the pin. EDIT: February 23, 2018 - I added v1.1 with a reworked (and supposedly better) pairing between the two halves, added pictures showing how the parts fit together (the extruder mount is just an example), and added a base that takes 20mm piezo disks. Needed parts (most of which you should have as leftovers from the original BOM): * A 27mm piezo, undrilled * 1x M3x8 brass insert * 4x 3x12 dowel pins * 3x M3x12, 2x M3x25, 4x M3x10 screws * 2x M3 nuts Instructions: * I printed mine in PETG with 15% infill (lines), 0.8 walls. Support on the base only. * Finish the parts after printing by laying flat the two nuts and the heads of the screws at the sides of the piezo and in the center of the actuator - use heat if needed to ensure that. * Drill the holes for the optical sensors and on the bottom/horizontal part of the base using an M3 tap instead of a drill bit. * Make the pins fit into the holes * Ensure the two adjustment screws fit tightly but move freely in their holes * Use a file to make the two parts fit together - it should be a snug fit, not super tight. * Move/mount the X optical endstops to the base plate of the adapter * Attach the actuator (the smaller, round part with the bump) to the actual extruder mount you intend to use, using the standard way - pins and central screw from behind * Place a 27mm piezo into the nest on the base, positioned with ceramics upwards. Ensure it goes inside - file a bit if needed. If the piezo doesn't fit snugly in place, try using a small piece of double-sided foam tape to stick it there. * Using the horizontal screws and the adjustment screws on the two sides of the piezo, bolt the actuator+extruder stack with the base, ensuring the piezo remains in its spot and is depressed by the convex pin of the upper part. Don't over-tighten the adjustment screws, but don't leave them loose either - there should be no wobbling! It's critical to tighten things well here but still have it sensitive enough. If it's not tightened enough, you may start seeing inconsistent results - if you experience varying first-layer results, that may be the reason - try tightening a bit more. * Screw the pp20 pcb and connect it with the piezo (pin coming from ceramics goes to the lower pin of the pp20 two-pin header). * Mount the entire assembly (base-actuator-extruder) to the X-carriage with the original 4 pins and screw from behind, tune the pp20 PCB if needed (consult the manual), and test - should trigger with a bare finger touch on the hotend. The design may have flaws - I'm a pretty bad designer.