Hero Me for CR-10S Pro

thingiverse

August 26th, 2019 - Sorry Everyone! I Was Away in Europe on My Honeymoon for 3 Weeks and Work Has Been Very Busy the Past Couple of Weeks Since My Return. I Am Now Catching Up on Hundreds of Comments and Requests to This and My Other Hero Me Makes Here on Thingiverse. Please Bear with Me While I Get Back Up to Speed. The Hero Me Cooling System Comes to the CR-10S Pro! It Is Derived from a Stable, Proven Design and Laid Out Against the Digital Mechanical Drawing of the CR-10S Pro X Gantry. Note: Print These Parts with Supports from Base/Build Plate Only. Print the Cooling Duct Parts with Front Face Down on the Build Plate, with Supports from the Build Plate Only. This Will Give the Mount Pegs and Fan Retention Fins the Strength Needed to Not Snap. BuildXYZ Has Created a Great Build Guide for the Hero Me. It Is Available Here: Https://www.buildxyz.xyz/creality-cr-10s-pro-hero-me-build-guide/ Option Choices Include: * Single 5015 Radial Fan Part Cooling Duct * Dual 5015 Radial Fan Part Cooling Duct * EZABL Mount for Single and Dual 5015 Ducts * Creality Stock ABL for Single and Dual 5015 Ducts * BLTouch Mounts for Single and Dual 5015 Ducts Marlin Firmware Offsets: * Stock ABL & EZABL for the Single 5015 Fan Duct Is: -45 X and -9 Y * Stock ABL & EZABL for the Dual 5015 Fan Duct Is: -50 X and -9 Y * BLTouch & the Single 5015 Fan Duct Is: -40 X and -13 Y * BLTouch & the Dual 5015 Fan Duct Is: -46 X and -13 Y * EZABL and BLTouch for Dual 4020 Fan Duct Is in Development, Stay Tuned. The Hero Me Base Requires a 4010 Axial Fan (or 4020) to Cool the Hot-End and One or More 5015 Radial Fans for the Parts Cooling Ducts. Two M3 Screws and Nuts Will Be Needed to Mount the Hero Me (M3 15mm Should Work). One M3 18mm and Nut to Hold the 5015 Fan, and at Least 2 M3 15mm to Hold the 4010 Fan. Use Two M3 8mm Screws to Hold the Creality Stock ABL Sensor in Its Mount. Parts Cooling Duct Height Placement: When the Hot-End Nozzle Is Touching the Build Plate, the Bottom of the Part Cooling Duct Should Be Between 1mm and 2mm Above the Build Plate (Depending on Your Hot-End and Nozzle Shape/Size). You Want the Ducts to Be Blowing Air at the Base of the Nozzle. The Lower the Better, but Not So Low as to Catch on the Printed Parts. I Set Mine to About 1.2mm - 1.4mm Above the Bed. There Are Some Duct Leveling Helpers Included with One of the Remixes Here: Https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256 Update May 31st: Added 4020 Single Fan Cooling Duct. Update April 13th: Setting the Offset in Marlin for the ABL Here Is the Fix Provided by TM3D. Https://github.com/insanityautomation/marlin and If You Go to Issues and Look for "CR-10S Pro, ABL Data Different After Restart Machine" or Straight to the Link Below, Someone Already Compiled the Fix for the Hero Me. Https://github.com/insanityautomation/marlin/pull/3432 Update March 10th: Updated Dual 5015 and 4020 Fan Ducts. Update Mar 3rd: Updated Hero Me Base - Made Room for Loosened Screw Heads on Hot-End as Well as for the 4020 Part Cooling Duct. Also Minor Cleanup on Several Surfaces. Update Feb 26th: Added Dual 4020 Parts Cooling Duct. Update Feb 24th: Significant Update to All the Part Cooling Ducts to Increase Air Flow by More Than Doubling the Size of Fan Outlets, Also Angled the Direction of the Air Flow to Move Turbulence Away from the Nozzle Tip. This Will Allow More Cooling Air to Flow Across the Nozzle Tip Faster. The Fan Shroud in the Pictures Can Be Found Here: Https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662879 Thanks! This Thing Was Made with Tinkercad. Edit It Online Https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5tqdroilsqt