HeatBed, 12mm RJMP Bearings and Linear Rods Mounts

thingiverse

DIY HeatBed mount with Silent 12mm RJMP Bearings and Rods mounts with Belt Tensioner + With anti-vibration and anti-misalignment rubber o-ring system.Why rubber O-Rings: They ensure pressure on the plastic bearings.Balance the micro misalignment of the guide rods (anti-misalignment). Reduce vibrations (anti-vibration).For Ender 235x235 heatedBed.For Rod length 500mm with a diameter of 12mm, distance from each other 100mm.For 4x Bearings RJMP-01-12, diameter 12mm.O-ring size for Rods - 10mmx2mm (8x)O-ring size for Bearings - 20mmx2mm (8x)************************************** Caution: *************************************The HeatBed must be insulated from below! Not suitable for heated chamber!Below are the temperature results of what I tried************************************************************************************* Notes:The Top_Rods_Cap.stl have a groove preventing 180° rotated insertion (they are not symmetrical).Full tightness of the bearings on the rods is achieved after fitting all four with the Bed Mount plate.Belt tensioning is easy and it can easily happen that you switch it too much (some machines have a belt tension defined by the manufacturer), so it is necessary to estimate it by feel, whether it is neither too much nor too little.On the Post-Printing photos below are not the newest versions of the models and they can may be a little bit different, but the important thing is there to see.Additional notes:When assembling, an old transformer soldering iron is useful for heating nuts, washer, those that are more difficult to insert, for example if you have strings inside the hole after printing + A melt gun, to fix the nuts, against falling out. Sandpaper is also good for a fine comparison of the contact surfaces and some stuff such as small cutting pliersManual: To release the belt then:Loosen the four front screws of the tensioner and completely release the tensioner knob.Remove the belt from the engine pulley.Slide out the Belt Tensioner with the screws from the Front rods mount.List of Material: (All measurements are metric, all screws (except two HEX Head) are common M5 and M3 Phillips Flat Countersunk Head Machine Screws, DIN 956 (hereinafter referred to as CS Head)).Front Rods Mount:M5 L30mm (8x) ;CS HeadO-rings: inner diameter: 10mm, thickness: 2mm (4x) ;for linear rodsBack Rods Mount: M5 L30mm (8x) ;CS HeadM3 L10mm (2x) ;CS Head, for EndStopM3 L16mm (2x) ;CS Head, for EndStopO-rings: inner diameter: 10mm, thickness: 2mm (4x) ;for linear rodsBelt Tensioner:M5 L40mm (4x) ;CS HeadM5 L20mm (1x) ;HEX Head!M5 L30mm (1x) ;HEX Head! Bed Mount Parts:M3 L20mm (16x) ;CS Head, for RJMP BearingsO-rings: inner diameter: 20mm, thickness: 2mm (8x) ;for RJMP BearingsM5 L40mm (5x) ;CS Head, for Belt and pulley system Washers: 17x2mm (9x)Washers under M3 nuts (16x)M5 lock nuts (with plastic) around the pulleys are good here (5x)Other things that are needed:4x M4 L40mm screws for adding a heated bed with springs and 8x 17x2 washers.4x M4 Wings nut for springs of Bed (note: Large wheels for tightening springs (such as Ender's) do not fit here!)Pulley: 2x Smooth, 2x ToothedBelt (1 meter)4x Bearings RJMP-01-12, diameter 12mmScrews for attaching the mounts (Front and Back) to the Your frame.Bed mount from PLA and temperature results, what I have tested:I printed the most with the heated bed at 70°C, there were more prints: No problems (It was PETG, PLA I print at 50°C).I also did a separate non-print test, when the Bed was stationary and not moving (it didn't cool down by moving, but all-metal wing nuts work well as a heatsink):Bed: 90°CTime: 1 hourThe highest temperature I was able to measure at one moment during the test was 52°C, directly on the screwBottom washers: average 43-45°C (more in contact with the screw, less away from it)Places of contact between metal and plastic: average 36-40°CPlastic around the washers (up to 5 mm): 33-35°CMeasured with a Uni-T multimeter, the tests were carried out with insulating from below (adhesive with AL foil), without a chamber and the ambient temperature in the room was 19-20°CAt the end of the test (after an hour) I performed Mesh Bed Leveling with a probe, I exported the result to the image that is at the end in the Post-Printing sectionAnyway if you are going to print above 70°C it would be a good to do your own tests on what the Bed does before you let the printer print by alone! Or with a different assembly, or with a different ambient temperature!