Haslab Upgrade Parts

thingiverse

Hose Connector Plate: While not the right connector, it works. Used a 3 pin 20mm Aviation Connector from Uxcell on Amazon. Had to trim corners off the socket to recess it. Plate legs hold the connector in place. Used 6/32x1/2in socket head cap screws to mount. Cyclotron Cable Clips: These fit into the existing holes in the lid to replace the solid black plastic ribbon cable. Might be a tight fit. There are 2 closed end pieces and 2 floating pieced to fill the gaps between the missing holes (2) in the lid. These can be glued in place or left unglued. Used a 10 wire rainbow ribbon cable that feeds through the slots in the clips. Added "sensor screens" just for looks. The bronze screen is just fiberglass window screen colored with a Sharpie. Neutrik Adapter: For direct wiring to the inside of the wand. Uses a Neutrik NAC3MPX Powecon Tru1 Appliance Inlet Connector and corresponding Neutrik Stage or Studio Cable Plug (NAC3FX-W-TOP) on the hose. The threaded adapter screws into the wand handle. The socket (Yellow tube on hose plug) needs the corners cut off and then filed until it fits in the threaded connector. The spikes on the end cap of the plug needs to be trimmed to make it flush. The hose adapter then replaces the white cable clamp and rubber plug. Filler Tube Plates: Just found out about these. They slide onto the bottom of the tubes. The beam line tube uses the 2 rounded corner plate (Corners top left and bottom right.) and the other filler tube has the rounded corner top right. Used hot glue to simulate weld tacks. Filler Tube Charge Port: Made a usable door on the filler cap to hide a 12v charge port for a Talentcell battery pack. uses a 5.5 x 2.1mm DC Power Jack Socket 3 Pin Threaded Female Panel Mount Connector Adapter that threads into the back of the cap. The top of the tube needs to be drilled out to 3/4 of an inch and inside supports cut out about an inch to make room for the jack and wire. 1/16in metal rod for the pin and 3x2mm neodymium magnets to keep door closed. (Not absolutely necessary as the lit seems to stay closed.) Heat Sink: Big enough to cover the existing heat sink hole in the pack. Mounts with 3-6/32x1/2in button head cap screws. Copper wires are bent from 14AWG solid copper wire. 2 channels on the bottom and one on the top are sized for the wire to press fit into the channels. The brass rods are 1/16 inch. Snack Compartment Power Panel: Drop in power panel wall for the side compartment using original pack screws and posts. Uses WerFamily 16mm Tri-color switches, 1-latching power switch, 2 momentary power switches, and 2 ring momentary switches. But any 16mm switch brand will work. A JBL Go 2 speaker was opened and wires were soldered to the button terminals of the power, bluetooth, and volume buttons. (All momentary buttons) A panel mount USB mini cable plugs into the GO and mounts to the panel. A 12v 5.5 x 2.1mm DC Power Jack Socket is mounted to recharge a Talentcell battery pack. Used a MGI SpeedWare Voltmeter Gauge 12vDC with Blue LED Digital Display (Short Body) as a voltage gauge. Panel uses existing screw post. Talentcell Battery Tray: This tray fit a Talentcell 12V with usb 6000mah battery pack. It requires cutting out a littie bit of the internal supports and complete removal of the D-cell battery compartment. It uses 2 existing screws to mount. A third longer screw can be added to the top tab but I found it not needed. While a snug fit, I used a Velcro strap to keep it in place. *** NOTE*** To use the power panel, a notch and hole need to be cut in the wall of the pack. Installing Talencell Battery pack (6000mha) require cutting out the D-cell battery compartment. A 3000mah pack will fit where the JBL Speaker is located washout removing the D-cell battery compartment if not using the space for a speaker. A JBL Go 2 will fit snug in the space behind the power panel. With the speaker facing the back of the pack, gives nice sound and base to the pack when tapped into the pack speaker line.