Hammerhead Slingshot v3.8

thingiverse

UPDATE: I've redone these files from scratch, modifying the frame and scales for some time now. Files ending in "_0" are one frame and one scale, while files ending in "_1" are just the frame (fork), and those ending in "_2" are just the scale (handle face). Two scales are needed, one for each side of the frame; I intended to print two frames and glue them together for strength. However, after printing a 100% filled ABS plastic frame, it turned out strong enough on its own, making the option to print two frames up to the user's preference. The new file is also 1mm thinner, measuring 8mm compared to 9mm previously. It should still function as expected. I love slingshots; I've recently challenged myself to create one using every machine at TechShop Chandler. So far, I've printed several on the Shopbot and Laser machines. Next up is the 3D printer, followed by metal ones on the waterjet. I'd like to mention that I've designed several types of shooters powered by rubber bands (Theraband Gold being my preference). I sell wooden slingshots with plans for metal ones soon. Joerg Sprave of SlingShotChannel has been a huge inspiration; if you're fascinated by slingshots, be sure to check him out. Back to this design: it's meant to print two frames and glue them together, along with two scales (the smaller pieces) to be glued as well. The holes in the handle are for alignment using bamboo skewers. Breaking this down into four separate prints was intentional; each is shorter and more manageable than printing the entire slingshot at once. If done all at once, it would require 14 hours of print time with a raft and supports needed – failing during that period would mean starting over completely. This way, only a specific piece needs to be reprinted in case something goes wrong. Without rafts and supports, printing is significantly faster. Ideally, I'd round out parts of the frame (specifically, the fork section). To achieve this, a fillet on one side of the fork would need to be applied, but figuring out how has been challenging so far. This design allows for use with either rubber bands or tubes; the hole in the heads is meant to accommodate both. However, I suspect that the hole may need enlargement after making a test piece; initially, it's planned to drill the hole larger, while considering filling the inside with epoxy. Using "theraband gold" as rubber band material is recommended due to its performance; find it cheap on eBay. A tutorial showing how to attach bands can be found at http://www.melchiormenzel.de/making_rubber_attach.html. Note: the durability of these prints hasn't been extensively tested, and I created them mainly for making RTV molds from which to cast carbon fiber slingshots. Who wouldn't want one?! The Design Process I started by drawing the basic shape in Inkscape. The shape was then imported into FreeCAD to extrude it, but I encountered issues there; so I decided to try TinkerCAD. As Autodesk doesn't natively support Linux, TinkerCad is still my go-to CAD program, despite it being simpler than FreeCAD – albeit significantly easier for new users like me. FreeCAD is powerful and does get used in its full capability whenever needed.