Greg's Beefed'wadestruder B'struder Remix Geared Bowden Extruder

thingiverse

This is a beefed-up version of Greg's B'Wadestruder - Geared B'struder by VanessaE. It works with the stock Anet A8 extruder stepper, hobbed gear, and idler bearing. It should work with others too; that's just what I have. This is a bowden extruder, so you'll need to buy some M6 ptfe tube fittings and ptfe tube. You'll also need to buy a 45 mm M5 bolt and some 608 bearings (or try printed or out of an old fidget spinner). All other screws I needed to use already had extras from the Anet A8. See it in action: https://youtu.be/OLfVsnN3ViY Update 10/2/18: Changes to top plate - Increased thickness of top plate to 10 mm, same as bottom plate for symmetry. Increased depth of top plate bearing slot. Narrowed idler arm enclosure by 0.5 mm. Tightened motor brace tolerance by .1 mm. Completely happy with the top plate for now. Updated pictures. Changes to base plate - Moved set screw access down by 1.5 mm. Wasn't a big problem before, but now it's closer to the set screw position once assembled. Added idler arm guide bushing. This should make it easier to align the hinge with the arm once the top plate is on. Use is optional; it goes on the side of the idler arm which faces the top plate. End of updates. I noticed my original Greg's B'Wadestruder base plate was flexing when using high retraction speeds (>35 mm/s). I was also unhappy with the play between my M5 screw and the ID of my 625zz bearing, making the gear a bit off. I also noticed the hinge for my B'struder's idler arm was flexing back and forth a bit during these retractions, slowly getting weaker. So on to the changes: -Now uses 608zz bearings for the top and bottom plate; you can print a spacer to bring the tolerance to the M5 axle really tight. Also more widely available, and has 3D printable versions as this is a low-speed application. Opens the possibility to upgrade to a geared extruder without purchasing any bearings. -Base plate is now 3 mm thicker, and the holes and all nut slots have been removed. Nuts cost money, and they don't need to be there. -Base plate now mounts flush to the edge of the motor. (Can now stand upright with a flat surface) -Top plate is now 3 mm thicker -Top plate now supports the hinge for the idler arm. Hinge now supported from both sides. The hinge now uses a 30 mm M3 screw. -Top plate now braces against the motor and is connected to the base plate on both sides of the idler arm. You can use a M5 washer as a spacer to lift the gear away from the bearing/base plate. -Pictures are now up to date