Grado Headphones Rod Blocks

prusaprinters

<p>This is one of those things that if you need them, you'll know. Otherwise you probably won't give them a second thought.</p> <p>If you need them, you've either had one break or you learned that if you want to customize your headphones, you're going to need to find a replacement for these. Grado has designed the rod blocks that join the Headband to the earcups without serviceability in mind which is kind of disappointing, but at the same time I don't think they expect they'll fail. Apparently they didn't anticipate a meat puppet like me.</p> <p>From what I observed in the admittedly violent disassembly process was that it appears they drive in or heat stake the headband into a plastic block that the earcup rod slides through, then glue an outer housing to that at the factory.</p> <p>Personally, I had one of the rodblocks on my Grado SR80's decide it wanted no part in the retention of the headband any longer. So spurred my need.</p> <p>I set about designing up a new set that could be printed and replace the lost functionality. As a bonus, they could also be removed if I ever wanted to add a leather headband later.</p> <p>What I came up with worked out pretty well. I made a number of versions trying to sneak up on a snug fit for the rod and a tight fit for the headband. They're also slightly smaller than the original ones with rounded, versus beveled, edges. Printed in black, they look pretty good from 6 ft with an astigmatism.</p> <p><h3>Instructions for use:</h3></p> <ol> <li>Using a measured amount of violence, remove the original rod blocks. I used a vice to crack them apart.</li> <li>Be sure to retain the four little rubber O-rings (two on each block) that are used to apply friction to the rods.</li> <li>Print out the rodblocks in your favorite <b>PETG</b> material (or whatever else you'd like, but make sure to re-slice for that material profile).</li> <li>Test the fit of the rods, if they are snug you may not need to O-rings.</li> <li>If you wish to use the O-rings, give them a touch of silicone grease, squeeze them into the hole (I used some needlenose pliers), then use a wooden toothpick to guide them into the reliefs designed for them.</li> <li>Now install the metal headband into the slots. The "R" and "L" are intended to show to the outside. I had to seat them using some gentle percussion (the back of a plastic brush) until the holes lined up.</li> <li>Once they're lined up I used an M3, cap head screw and matching nut. It should be fairly obvious which goes where. This just needs to be tightened snugly and frankly, probably aren't even necessary.</li> <li>Now, test your headphones with an audio source you can adjust the right and left balance to so you know which cup goes where.</li> <li>Reinstall the headphone on the appropriate side, replace the little black caps on the top, and you're done.</li> </ol><p>Nice.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>This was sliced and printed using <em>Prusament</em> Black <strong>PETG</strong>.</p> <p>The design is intended to print upright, without supports. The brimming probably isn't necessary and just requires more cleanup, but I was choosing the "better safe than sorry" route.</p>