Gore Krusha Mega Walker

cults3d

Gore Krushas are build by the biggest and craziest meks at the peak of a greenskin WAAAAAGH! as a symbol of their gods - Towering over the battlefield this 'eavy armored walker krushes smaller enemies by simply stomping them to bloody goo (with insane laughter from the Gore Kursha Kaptin'). Meanwhile larger targets can be engaged with it's mega chain choppa, ripping through armor easily. Although not very accurate, the Gore Krushas ranged weapons have 'nuff shootin' to hit and kill all targets. The sound of high kaliber gattlas at full auto bursts is horrifying or at least intimidating for the most enemies (....or motivating in case of greenskin ears) FOR BEST QUALITY PRINT, PLEASE READ ALL(!) OF BELOW: To print the Gore Krusha Mega Walker, you need time or a large resin printer ;-) I REALLY recommend a layer high of 0.075 or lower for all parts to get the quality I intended. Please see the pics, those are all printed in FDM (<=0,075mm)! I tried to keep the need of tree supports low, but I recommend it to use them on some parts - decide for yourself & make sure to set the tree support z-distance to a multiple of 2 (layer hight) for optimal removal (keep in mind: layer hight 0.05 to 0.075(!) ) (The Mega Choppa should be printed with tree support, I included a version with the teef supported, this is also tested) -------------- EXCEPTIONAL 'fings for this model: -------------------- ---------- SPIKES ---------- Print them "laying", not standing, or else they will easily snap of if you ram another model ;-) ---------- Exhausts ---------- "GoreKrusha_Exhausts02_Bars_1.75mmFilament.stl" can be combined with "GoreKrusha_Exhausts02.stl" for Resin printers. In FDM just use some 1.75mm filament & make sure you don't snap of the middle post - trust me :D ---------- LEGS ---------- The legs can be posed standing or walking, but I recommend standing for both to find a good balance for the model. ---------- ARMS ---------- !!! All joints MUST be printed laying flat !!! This is important, else they will likely snap of due to the weight of the arms. The arms should fit thight, but they are not perfect, better glue them after posing The ammo belt is a "flexi" print-in-place, once finished, you can gently move the joints to breake it free. With this, the dakka arm can be posed freely as you want. ---------- DA RIGGAZ (Crew) ---------- Da Riggaz are posed and remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3985624 by poikilos To print Da Riggaz you need tree supports, I flipped them back 15° or 30° (depending on the model) and lifted them +1,5mm on the Z-axies, so the supports will pe printed first. Layer hight 0.05mm, enable support roof with ~0.75mm. ---------- Over all printing recommendation! ---------- I printed the bottom plate with 25% infill, since it has to carry the weight of the model (about 1,2kg!) Many parts have a "flat surface" -> face those to the build plate. Detaild sides / most visible sides should be faced towards the cooling fan. ---------- ASSEMBLY ---------- If you need instructions - just open all files in 3D Builder or e.g. Meshmixer. There you can look where they go. ---------- FOLLOWING: ---------- Shame less beggin' for some coins for coffein I need doin' stuff like that :-) Please consider a tip ....this highly detailed model was a work of 200h+ of free time over almost a year! If you do so, I HIGHLY APPRECIATE YOUR GENEROSITY :-) Kind regards, Tersus