GoPro / EKEN Handlebar Mounting

prusaprinters

ConceptThis model is designed to clamp around the handlebars of my bike, to give a little adjustment in camera direction and allow the direct fixing of EKEN and GoPro camera cases.M5 fasteners are used throughout the design, in part chosen to match the hole size on the camera case mounting.Thumb Screws are inspired by the standard components and take a Hex Screw without the need for spanners. Pan is locked off by a Thumb Wheel that takes a nut and acts similar to any locking nut.DesignModel created in OnShape my current favourite parametric modelling software, with both free and paid subscriptions. All accessible via a browser, even on a smart phone!Fasteners are part of the standard models included in the assembly environment and the case assembly was borrowed from Justin Espana in OnShapes Public Models.PrintingThe pictured print is a Generic PLA, I'm intending to reprint it in a more robust material. PLA tends to degrade and become brittle in the sun and starts to mis-shape when hot.You'll need to print one of everything with two of the Thumb Nuts.SettingsLayers: 0.2mmShell: 0.8mmInfill: 25%Support: Touching Build PlateAdhesion: NoneWhilst I see a lot of people using ABS and PETG, I'm going to print again in NonOilen® (via 3DFilaPrint) which is as easy to use as PLA. It's a polylactic acid and polyhydroxy butyrate blend (PLA/PHB), that appears to give long-term durability but retains 100% biodegradability in industrial compost and electric composters. More importantly, temperature resistance up to 110 °C – right after 3D printing with no need to anneal - this means we're not going to see warping and deformation in the sun where the material surface temperature could reach 50°C in the sun (UK).AssemblyAdditional fasteners are required:6 off - M5 Hex Nut2 off - M5 x 45 Hex Head Screws2 off - M5 x 25 Socket Head Cap ScrewsYou will also benefit from a little rubber sheet or expanded foam tape to stick to the inside of the upper and lower clamps half adjacent to the handlebar. This will give a little compliance at the interface and helps stop slipping as your bike “bounces” down the road.Insert a Hex Head Screw into each of the Thumb Screw, ready for use later. (These are easy to adapt to other applications with longer screws - I have a squat version for smaller spaces too.)Pop a nut in the recess on the top of the upper clamp, then insert one of the Socket Head Cap Screws. Tighten this up to lock in place but not so tight as to crush the model. Now bring the hinge together of the upper and lower clamp halves, with another M5 Nut and the remaining Socket head Cap Screw. Again we're nipping up the screw in the nut but not so tight as to stop the hinge from opening.You can now spin a nut down the exposed thread on the top of the clamp mounting, before pushing the thumb wheel on top - run this as far down as you can.Push another nut into the slot at the bottom of the camera mounting and spin it onto the exposed thread. Run this on as far as you can, then back off about ½ to 1 turn. You can spin the thumb wheel up to meet the underside and lock it off at any angle.Finial steps are inserting the nut for the thumb screws, mounting the camera case and positioning it on your bike's handlebars.Future DevelopmentWhilst this gives a little pan and tilt, I'm thinking about a 90° adaptor between this camera mount and the camera case to give a little more flexibility for levelling and adjustment between the handlebars and camera.Provided the brake cables can be kept out of the way, it may be better to work with gravity and hang below the bars rather than perching on top!