Glass lens protector for Caddx Nebula Pro camera (14mm lens diameter) Microscope Slide for FPV drone

prusaprinters

<figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/279453/rich_content/4183ba11-1e06-4325-8cdf-3cc40a3f5b91/lens-prot.gif#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22c94acdc5-0c41-45c7-884d-ce8265cd8ab6%22%2C%22w%22%3A416%2C%22h%22%3A338%7D"></figure><p>Print in <strong>TPU</strong>.&nbsp;</p><p>The camera cutout is &nbsp;13.8mm in diameter and about 4.5mm deep. Fits Caddx Nebula Pro, and other cameras that use 14mm lens.&nbsp;</p><p>The glass portion is made from an microscope slide. You can buy those pretty cheap, they usually come in packs of 50 or 100 and cost just a couple of dollars.</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.38%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/279453/rich_content/29a38aab-89de-47c4-8ab2-d3ea6ad91e6d/img_20220920_002157.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22a8a8efa8-5367-47ae-b5f1-cbd947ba3229%22%2C%22w%22%3A4000%2C%22h%22%3A2250%7D"></figure><p>The slides are 1" x 3", you will need to cut 16mm off the long edge, so that the resulting piece is 16x25mm.&nbsp;</p><ol><li>In order to cut the slide, score it along the edge you want to break. It's best done with a glass cutter if you own one, but you can do it with a knife. Keep in mind, it will destroy the edge, so use a knife with disposable blades.&nbsp;</li><li>After you've made a visible mark on the glass, prepare some boiling water, and cold water in a bowl (running water can work as well). Slowly heat up the glass along the cut by pouring boiling water over it for a couple of seconds, then dunk in the cold water. Repeat this a couple of times.&nbsp;</li><li>If your cut was deep enough, the glass may release on its own. If not, you may need to use some pliers to break it off. Place the glass on flat surface, with the cut exposed in the air, then snap it off. Use gloves or some cloth over the glass for safety.&nbsp;</li><li>Sand the edges down.</li></ol><p>It may take you a couple of tries to get a perfect one.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>At the top of the lens cutout there is a narrower lip, which is supposed to prevent the holder from being pushed too far down and maintain a distance between the lens and surface of the glass. If your field of view is wide enough, parts of the mount may be visible in the camera image. I've included a second file “No Lip”, which removes the lip and will allow the protector to be pushed further down, but it may result in the lens and glass touching.&nbsp;</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:79.48%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/279453/rich_content/eaa14b4b-fd5c-4613-b279-ce07af1fc772/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22cf123a5f-687a-4f93-a3e6-f0562c835d58%22%2C%22w%22%3A1768%2C%22h%22%3A524%7D"></figure><figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:73.23%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/279453/rich_content/cfb5355d-f017-497c-b681-ddf08f4c5f15/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%223556b569-656c-471f-a278-6795455ff13f%22%2C%22w%22%3A2174%2C%22h%22%3A881%7D"></figure><p>The glass and its holder is longer on the bottom, because it's easier to make one cut on the glass than two. Also it gives you a bit of extra room to hold the glass without touching over the lens portion. Unfortunately, this also limits the camera angle a little by forcing a minimum uptilt. For me it wasn't a problem, but I've added a bit of chamfer to the bottom for a bit of extra movement.&nbsp;</p><p>If you manage to make a square 16x16mm glass then I've included a 16x16 model without the bottom portion that should not limit the camera angle adjustment.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>.step file is included if you wish to modify it.&nbsp;</p>