Garden hose repair, 3/4 inch

prusaprinters

<p>mildot's original ¾ inch parts (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1636812) did not fit the hose I wanted to use them on (the insert/male end was too small and the nut was too big. &nbsp;The hose in question has a 1 inch outer diameter, and ¾ inch inner diameter with a spiral ribbing molded into the lining.&nbsp;</p><p>In the process, I re-drew them in a much higher resolution, and truncated the tips of the knurled surface on the clamp nut so as not to hurt my hand.</p><p>Cleanly cut off the broken fitting, slide the “clamp nut” over the hose, smooth end first, and back a few inches, push the hose “end” piece into the hose, put a few drops of plastic-safe oil on the clamp threads and hose end threads, then push the clamp nut up and screw it onto the end piece.</p><p>Because of its small diameter and relatively thin walls, I highly advise using your "strongest" print quality profile (I.e. thick walls, dense infill, hotter temperature than normal, you get the idea). &nbsp;Use your toughest/most durable filament for the “end” piece. &nbsp;I chose Atomic brand carbon fibre Nuclear Nylon. &nbsp;It's the clamp nut that actually supplies most of the strength of the assembly, but you don't want to risk breaking the “end” piece before the nut is torqued down. &nbsp;The clamp nut is less fragile since it's so thick, so plain old PLA would probably be fine, though I used Atomic carbon fibre PETG.</p><p>I also recommend wrapping pipe tape around the fitting threads, but then again I'd use it on a brand new metal fitting as well. :-)</p><p>The end/insert piece has a *very* tight fit. &nbsp;Be prepared to use some muscle. &nbsp; The clamp nut is more “normal” to start out, but you're probably gonna have to really torque it down to get a good seal around the end/insert's barbs.</p><p><strong>Changelog</strong></p><p><strong>2021-02-27:</strong> My initial try worked well enough to make the hose usable, but leaked a little, so I made the end piece's barbs a bit bigger, tapering from where they were in the first draft, up to about 3 mm larger in diameter at the clamp threads. &nbsp;Also, I added a 1⅜ inch hex to it to give something reasonable for a wrench to grab onto when torquing down the lock nut. &nbsp;The new parts are now watertight.</p>