Game Ward Based on League of Legends Wards

thingiverse

I downloaded multiple files, but none of them worked for me the way I wanted. Each time I attempted to edit them, they came out broken and unprintable. Determined to succeed, I spent hours in Fusion 360, a software program I'm not familiar with, and recreated the base from scratch. It finally worked as expected. The gem was relatively easy to print, but the wings remained a challenge for me. Unfortunately, I have edited the files so many times that I've lost track of who originally created them. I printed the models at 245mm tall, using an Ender 3 and a CR20. The base was printed with 20% infill in Ziro Bronze filament, while the gem used Maker Geeks Crystal Green (any transparent green will work) and the wings used Maker Geeks Crystal Yellow (again, any transparent yellow). I plan to add a hole for an LED light on the wings later, but it's not necessary. The gem and wings were printed on my large Ender 3 with a 1.2mm nozzle at 30mm/s and a 0.2mm layer height in Vase Mode. I added three bottom layers to the wings, while the gem had no bottom layers. To assemble the models, I used hot glue to attach them together, along with an LED light that I salvaged from its enclosure (available on Amazon at https://amzn.to/2RbQX1r). When installing the wires, be sure to hot glue both sides of the PCB to secure them and prevent tangles. You should also hot glue the wire into the channel built into the bottom for tension relief. The wings will not slice properly in most slicers, resulting in errors. However, Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition) was able to slice them cleanly. I've included the G-code files for that slicer if you have an Ender 3 or a larger build volume printer with a 1.2mm nozzle. To use these files, adjust the speed and temperatures to suit your filament selection (keep it slow unless you're experienced). You may need to print on the hot side, as I did at 230c. I attempted to create my own wings in Fusion, but I couldn't figure out how to achieve the contoured surface of the original model. Once I master that technique, I'll update the files. Good luck with your prints! I'm working on a smaller, portable version that uses a cheap "pen light" for power. More details will follow. I made this as a Christmas gift for a friend who enjoys LED lights. The models are simply hot-glued together and can be powered by plugging them into a USB port or charger/power bank and flipping the switch. Note: You'll need a 1.2mm nozzle to print these models successfully. I used an Ender 3 with a 1.2mm nozzle, but you can also use a CR-10 mini or CR-10 with the same settings. If you're using a different printer, be sure to adjust the speed and temperatures accordingly. For nozzles, check out this link: https://amzn.to/2V2HxVd